My Slice of Peru

Moving Day…

2012-02-05T17:15:00.002-05:00

For whatever reason, you’ve decided it’s time to move. Maybe you need a bigger/smaller place, or can’t handle the stairs anymore to the upper level, or want to be closer to school or family. Or maybe you just want a change of scenery. Chances are that learning of an available house/apartment is what prompted you to relocate. Chances are also good that you’re not moving very far…probably not more than twelve blocks from your present location and usually less.

Moving ‘day’ is really a misnomer. Moving will have begun days in advance, with friends and family members casually hand-carrying items to the new location as time permits and when they’re in the area. A casual observer wouldn’t even notice a ‘move’ was taking place until the day comes to move the big stuff.

And how do you get your big stuff moved? If the new and old locations are close enough, say within three blocks, it could be on the backs of family members on foot. If the distance is too great or you’re lacking in strong-backed family members, you could call a moving company….well, a moving company of sorts. You’re not going to get a humongous van with hydraulic ramps and six bonded professional uniformed men equipped with dollies and tape and boxes and padding material to safe guard your heirlooms. Not here in Chiclayo you’re not. What you’ll get are two guys who own or have borrowed a vintage truck and who have no concept or interest in getting your furniture to its new home undamaged. But most people don’t use them anyway.

Most people know of a relative or family friend who owns a truck who would make the truck available at a reasonable price. This is less expensive than a moving company but has its drawbacks. The truck is usually decrepit and small which could mean many trips, and also will probably result in furniture damage.

The least expensive option, and probably the easiest on your belongings, is to contract with several moto taxies. They don’t normally do this – their main business it to transport people, but if it’s attractive enough financially they’ll take the job. These guys can pack a surprising amount of stuff in and on their motos. Plus it’s in their interest to handle your stuff carefully because they see and transport you every day.

These three motos made three trips with about 40 minutes in between, which means our former neighbor didn’t move very far. We’re wondering who our new neighbors will be. I hope they don’t have chickens.

Tom

A Day in Pacasmayo

2012-01-19T11:42:00.004-05:00

“There is nothing to see or do in Pacasmayo.” We’d heard that comment frequently and had come to accept it as fact, but after our visit yesterday we came away with a different opinion. No matter what your interests are, odds are you’ll find something that will make a one day visit to Pacasmayo worthwhile. Here…let us suggest an itinerary to you.

Start your visit at the (I’m only going to type this once) “Paseo de la Amistad, la Paz e Integración Perú – Ecuador” park. If you’re arriving by bus you have no choice; this is where the busses stop. Be sure to time your arrival in the morning or afternoon. There is little shade and the mid day heat will distract from the park’s beauty and uniqueness.

When you’ve finished with the park, walk west on Ave July 28 toward the pier. It’s a six-block walk on a beautiful tree-lined boulevard. Take a few minutes to visit the old train station (the large cupola structure on the right). There isn’t a whole lot to see inside but there are many photos of old trains and train disasters caused by floods.

Walk two more blocks from the train station and you’ll see a kid’s park and the malecòn on your left, and the pier directly in front of you. The malecòn will tempt you, but ignore it for now and pay the 37 cent fee to walk out on the pier. It’s a very long walk and caution is called for. The pier was constructed in 1880 and not much has been done to maintain it. There are holes big enough to fall through, and planks that are loose.

Still, it will give you a panoramic view of the malecòn you’ll visit later, and if you’re lucky you may see a fishing boat being launched. The process is primitive, effective and entertaining. Two men take one end of a very thick rope and walk out on the pier. The rope is at least 100 yards in length. At a given signal, men on the beach push the boat into the water while those on the pier pull at a frantic pace. It takes twenty minutes for the boat to reach the middle of the pier, and during that time the boat we watched looked to be in danger of swamping several times.

Upon exiting the pier turn left and hike up the hill to the cemetery. You’ll be huffing and puffing when you arrive but it’s worth the effort. Not interested in cemeteries? Do you appreciate really good religious art? How about a cheery place with smiling faces? You’ll find both in this unique cemetery. The walls surrounding the cemetery are in our opinion an impressive art exhibit. Inside, many of the mausoleums; instead of the usual plastic flowers have happy faces of the deceased painted on them in bright cheery colors. Rather than the somber, contemplative atmosphere of most cemeteries, this one feels like you’re walking into a party.

Okay…it’s time to walk the malecòn. I wish the civil authorities and population from Pimentel could see this. This is what a malecòn should look like. It is tastefully done in every respect. There are plenty of benches to sit on, a level, well maintained boulevard to walk, and souvenir vendors and restaurant employees who are not aggressive. There are restaurants and snack shops for every taste and budget. Speaking of restaurants, it’s time for lunch.

This is the Hotel Pakatnamu. Take a seat at one of the outside tables to enjoy the view during your meal. Ten minutes later when no one has appeared, go inside and tell the man at the desk you’d like lunch. He will motion you to return to your table while indicating with gestures that someone will be with you soon. After another ten minutes poke your head in once again. The man will motion you to return to your table while indicating with gestures that someone will be with you soon. After a few more minutes of inattention get up and walk to the nearby La Estaciòn Gran Hotel for an excellent lunch.

Following lunch it’s time to take a leisurely walk back to the park to catch your bus. There’s time to vary your route back, and to stop at one of the small ice cream or pastry shops if you wish. Chances are your bus will be a few minutes late, so pick a spot in the shade, relax, and reflect on what was a very pleasant day in a town that has nothing to see or do.

Tom & Maribel

Archie’s Place

2012-01-15T21:34:00.006-05:00

Archie is an interesting character for several reasons. For starters, he’s an 87 year old native Peruvian who has lived in the Canary Islands for the last 14 years with his German wife. And his name isn’t Archie…its Manuel Bravo Soldevilla. People started calling him ‘Archie’ when he became an architect by profession and the name has stuck for over 60 years. It was while studying architecture in Germany that he met and married his wife. Archie was born in Huancavelica but spent most of his working life in Chiclayo. He has family living in Motupe, and returns to Peru to visit at least once every year.

Another thing that makes Archie interesting is that he is a dreamer. Four years ago he purchased a large lot in Motupe and began constructing a hotel/restaurant/activity hall. He designed it himself and talked with infectious enthusiasm as he showed us where the rooms, kitchen and dining area would be. There hasn’t been much work done on the place lately. Money is scarce plus Archie’s wife is starting to question ‘all the dead money’ he’s got tied up in investments. He says she’s a great wife but there are some things she doesn’t understand.

Also some years ago Archie bought a plot of about 160 acres in a dry forest just south of Motupe. Thirty five years ago the Pan American highway went right past his door. Today the Pan American is many miles to the west and the old road is little more than a gravel path. He built a large house with two complete apartments and six rental rooms. The plan was for Archie and his wife to live in one of the apartments; his sister and her family in the other; and rent out the single rooms to tourists. To date no one has lived in the apartments, and no serious attempt has been made to rent the tourist rooms.

Several of Maribel’s family made the visit today with us, and while most decided to sit and talk out of the hot sun, Archie, Augustine and I wanted to climb the mountains bordering his property. We hadn’t gone very far from the house when we saw three bee hives. We started to approach them when one of them seemed to explode with bees, and within seconds we were surrounded and being attacked. Archie and Augustine were each stung three times. I escaped untouched. I found out I can still run when I’m scared.

Archie led us first through the forest mostly comprised of algarrobo and beautiful green palo verde trees. Once onto the mountain he climbed at a steady pace, undoubtedly going to a specific location. I hope I can climb at his pace when I’m 87. After awhile we arrived at a large flat rock, which Archie promptly sat on and said it was his ‘el mirador’…scenic overlook. (His house is dead center in the photo) He said that often when he returned to Peru he would come to this rock to enjoy the tranquility, and to think about things. He was obviously pleased to see that Augustine and I appreciated the view also, but I had the feeling his preference is to be there alone. I can understand that.

Tom

Promesa Peru Year in Review

2012-01-12T14:48:00.001-05:00

During calendar year 2011 Promesa Peru sponsored three activities. In March we donated school supplies to the village of Collique Alto. July again found us in Collique Alto – this time providing medical assistance. In December we sponsored a Chocolatada in Las Colmenas.

The financial side of those activities is as follows:

Activity…………………………………….....Cost………...Donations

Collique Alto school supplies…………..$330.90……...$63.97

Collique Alto medical campaign………$216.99……....$93.09

Las Colmenas chocolatada……………..$376.64……....$205.18

Totals……………………………………........$924.53……...$362.24

The cost figures represent purchased goods and services directly attributed to the specific activities, and do not reflect out of pocket or administrative expenses borne by board members.

Cash donations of $362.24 amounted to 39% of activity costs…an increase of 8% over 2010. The value of in-kind donations; consisting of medicines for the Collique Alto medical campaign and candy for the chocolatada are estimated at $250. Our thanks to those of you who helped us to help the poor of Peru. We hope we can count on your continued support in 2012.

Joyce Ann Cline – Treasurer
Promesa Peru Inc.

Rosario Maribel Mestar Macalupu de Filipowicz - Treasurer
Promesa Peru Chiclayo

Huanchaco Beach

2012-01-10T11:20:00.004-05:00

Several years ago while visiting the archeological site of Chan Chan at Trujllo we made a very brief stop for lunch at a small town I later learned was Huanchaco. After lunch we walked on the pier, took a few photos, and went back to Trujllo. We didn’t think about the town at the time or after, until just recently when we decided we wanted to go somewhere for a few days to relax.

I’ve never done a laid-back vacation. I always want to see and do whatever the area offers. I don’t want to return to Chiclayo only to find that I missed seeing the world’s largest concrete sombrero, or drove right past the oldest fossil tamale in the Americas. Now, don’t get the idea I’m a Clark Griswold…I don’t go that far but I am a planner and list maker.

There was to be no planning for this excursion…no schedules, no agendas, no list of things to see and do; no nothing. The only requirements for our getaway were a decent hotel with a pool, bar and restaurant, and a small quiet community on the ocean. With the hope that Huanchaco was the town we were looking for, and that the Las Palmeras hotel would provide the remaining wants, Maribel, Brian and I boarded a bus for the four hour ride.

Huanchaco is not what I expected. It is fairly quiet, but not what I would call a sleepy little village. Our impression is that it is a larger, more modern and civilized version of Mancora; a popular beach community north of Chiclayo. Actually it’s as if there are two towns, with the pier serving as the dividing line. South of the pier the road becomes a modern four-lane highway bordered by upscale hotels and restaurants on the east, and a groomed beach (rare in Peru) to the west. North of the pier the road, beach and buildings have noticeably deteriorated. To walk the entire malecon including both north and south stretches takes about an hour at a leisurely pace, and is well worth the time.

It is definitely a tourist town, with most tourists congregating on the malecòn near the pier. There are large numbers of non-Hispanics milling about; taking photos, buying souvenirs from street vendors, and sampling food offerings in the many small restaurants. One puzzling observation was that a majority of the town’s restaurants and artisan shops closed at about 7:00pm…exactly the opposite of what we’d expected given the large numbers of tourists and slightly Bohemian feel to some sections of the malecòn. If there are night life locations, we didn’t see them.

I can’t suggest things to see and do because we didn’t do anything. Maribel and Brian spent lots of time in the pool and ocean. We walked the malecòn twice daily. We ate each meal at a different restaurant. We watched people catching fish on the pier, or wading in the ocean to harvest an edible weed (mococho) in the early morning. I did a lot of reading. Incidentally, I highly recommend “Water for Elephants” by Sara Gruen to anyone interested in a captivating, well-written and easy to read novel.

We spent hours on the beach watching people, pelicans, waves and sunsets. I listened to the sound of bowling ball sized rocks colliding together as the waves first placed them on the beach and then alternately reclaimed them for the sea. For how long have they been caught in that cycle? Years? Decades? Centuries? With very little effort I could invest them with human qualities. Did they prefer the beach or the water? Was the sound I heard actually their voices, perhaps rejoicing or lamenting their return to the sea?

Huanchaco turned out to be exactly what we wanted. Brian would like to move there. I suspect his meeting 18 year old Alejandra has something to do with that. We’re probably not going to move there, but present plans call for us to return in March. Huanchaco is a great place to do nothing.

Tom

Feliz Año!!

2012-01-01T13:23:00.003-05:00

Another New Year Eve in Chiclayo, and though I’ve become accustomed to the traditions associated with it they are still fascinating to me. The wearing of new yellow underwear; taking a shower in yellow flower petals; eating twelve grapes at exactly midnight – all are customs intended to insure good luck in the new year. Chiclayanos take these traditions very seriously – some I’ve talked with indicated they would feel ‘at risk’ during the coming year had they skipped any of them. I don’t share those beliefs but will admit that I wear new yellow underwear and eat twelve grapes at midnight. I figure it can’t hurt. But I don’t do the flower shower thing… it’s too much trouble to clean up afterwards.

My favorite part of the evening starts at about 11:45pm. That’s when the muñecos start appearing on the streets along with an early sporadic fusillade of fireworks. Over the next thirty minutes the sound of fireworks builds to a constant roar making conversation on the streets impossible. At midnight the muñecos are set ablaze and the streets quickly resemble infernos.

Something new for me this year was seeing these men launch a balloon. I’m told its common practice but this is the first time I’ve seen it. It’s really fascinating to watch. As I understand it the balloon, which can be purchased where fireworks are sold, is made of paper. The heat source is a cylinder of tightly rolled fabric saturated with wax.

I had expected to see it either burst into flames or plummet to the ground. It didn’t do either. It slowly kept climbing and drifting to the north, until after some ten minutes it was indistinguishable from the surrounding stars. All during our meal I wondered to myself how high that balloon had gotten; how far it traveled, and where it finally came down after the torch had burned out.

By 12:15 street festivities are mostly over. The muñecos are piles of smoldering ashes, fireworks have ceased and the streets are empty. People are inside eating their New Year dinner. The final part of the celebration for many Chiclayanos after the meal is to either go dancing somewhere until about 5:00am, or head for the beach at Pimentel to watch the sun rise. Brian and some of his friends went to Pimentel. He got in at 8:30 this morning. I don’t do 8:30 in the morning.

Tom

Meet Pit Stop Willie

2011-12-24T14:09:00.003-05:00

Willie’s day begins at about 6:00am in the Moshoqueque market. I don’t know why Moshoqueque has its own name…its part of Chiclayo, but that’s what everyone calls it. It’s a farmer’s market. Local farmers start converging on the area at 4:00am with fresh vegetables and fruits. Buyers like Willie are mostly small resellers from Chiclayo and towns as far as 30 miles distant. Prices are very inexpensive, making it cost effective for resellers to sell at a price that covers transportation and still make an acceptable profit.

Prices fluctuate daily so on any given day Willie will buy whatever he feels he can sell the most of at the highest price. For example, at Moshoqueque he can buy bananas for about $1.85 per 100. On the street he’ll sell them at 5 for 37 cents or $7.40 for the hundred. Not a bad profit. The box mounted on his tricycle normally contains bananas, watermelon, pineapples, mangoes, apples, grapes and oranges.

Willie doesn’t ride his tricycle. He pushes it with one hand while announcing his wares through a bullhorn in the other hand. His territory includes the urbanizations of Santa Victoria, Villarreal and Café Peru; about a 5 square mile area. He’s got a distinctive sound…a gentle yet strong voice with sort of a melodic chant. Maribel and I often smile to each other upon hearing his voice off in the distance when walking in his territory. He covers the entire area 3 to 4 times during the course of his 6:00am to 7:00pm day. I couldn’t hazard a guess at how many miles he walks in that time.

What I am sure of is that at least once during the day while selling on our street he will stop momentarily at a small vacant lot near our apartment to heed the call of nature. Which is why we call him Pit Stop Willie.

The Las Colmenas Chocolatada was just plain fun!

2011-12-21T18:26:00.002-05:00

Despite the rain…yes, we were rained on for almost the entire party, and despite Kokoroco the Clown having to deal with a balky sound system, kids and adults alike had a great time yesterday. There were games, music (sometimes), entertainment, toys for the kids and lots of food and candy for everyone.

For the kids and the community of Las Colmenas this Chocolatada is their Christmas. The parents and kids told us by word and actions it will be one to remember. A big thanks from us and the town to those who helped make it possible. If you’d like to see photos and read more about it please visit the Promesa Peru web page.

Tom

The Total Package

2011-12-17T11:15:00.003-05:00

I was talking with my friend Lucho the other day. Lucho is a wedding photographer and he was lamenting about how crowded and competitive his occupational field has become. He mentioned marriage proposals as an example. He says that the videoing of marriage proposals has become a mega production, even in Chiclayo. These days proposal packages routinely include fireworks, choreographed singers and dancers, a mariachi band, and a cameo appearance from a minor celebrity who is either up-and-coming or on the way down. You can even rent a ring, and if you want, dozens of ‘friends’ to witness the happy occasion. Lucho says it’s becoming harder to come up with new offerings to stay ahead of the competition.

But he’s working on a plan. Every photographer offers proposal and wedding packages, but nobody does them at the same time. Lucho figures he can not only offer his customers a lower price, but can save them time by filming the two events back-to-back. All the principals have to do is change clothes – he into a rental tux and she into a rental wedding dress. One of the rented friends becomes a preacher and viola!…instant wedding! I can see the possibilities and was congratulating Lucho on his cleverness when he stopped me short by saying - “You haven’t heard anything yet!” I could see he was just warming up.

“Tom…” he said to me, “it’s a sad fact that the majority of the marriages I film will end in divorce. Though we may not like it, if we know it’s going to happen why not film all three – proposal, marriage and divorce at the same time? The rented friends from the proposal segment become judges, lawyers, bailiffs and character witnesses for each of the principles, who again only have to change clothes”. I pointed out that they would also have to act sad rather than happy, but Lucho waived that off as trivial.

I have to admit I was impressed and told him so. Chiclayanos are nothing if not practical and would see the logic, and of course will jump at the chance to save money. When he asked if I thought his ‘total package’ plan could succeed, I told him it would succeed without question and that for six months to one year he’d be king of the hill…until his competition caught up, then he would be in the same position he is now. I saw the gleam in his eye and knew something else was coming.

“Tom, when I said I wanted to offer the ‘total package’, that’s exactly what I meant. I have an idea in the works for another offering, to be filmed all in the same morning with the proposal, wedding and divorce segments. I call it the R.I.P. option.”

It could work.

A message to Promesa Peru donors

2011-12-07T13:59:00.000-05:00

In checking our Promesa Peru Paypal account for donations to the upcoming chocolatada we found donations dating as far back as last February from four different donors. We were not aware of these donations as they were not listed with others in Paypal reports. We have no explanation as to how this happened. To Deborah Martin, Jim Glen, Jackie Rodriguez and Pauline, all we can do is apologize and say thank you.

If your intent was to donate to a medical campaign or school supplies activity, please send an email to me and we will hold your donation for the next occurrence of one of those events. If we don’t hear from you we’ll assume you approve of spending the money for the Las Colmenas chocolatada.

Thanks again for your donations.

Promesa Peru board members

The Village of Las Colmenas

2011-12-06T09:42:00.000-05:00

The first hour of the hour and ten minute drive to the village of Las Colmenas is a pleasant and relaxing ride. The entire road from Chiclayo to Las Colmenas and beyond to Chongoyape has recently been repaved, so the potholes that in the past made that journey literally a pain in the gluteus maximus have been eliminated. Once past the sugar cane towns of Pomalca, Tuman and Patapo the scenery changes to mountains on the immediate left and a lush green agricultural valley about one mile wide on the right. Rice and sugar cane dominate, but banana plantations and vineyards have a significant presence.

Las Colmenas isn’t located directly on the highway. You need to get off the combi at the Tocmoche intersection about a mile before reaching Chongoyape. There, if you’re lucky, a moto taxi will be waiting to take you to Las Colmenas and school I.E. 11249, which is where we were going at the invitation of Juan Garcia Posada, the school’s director. During the ten minute ride the moto taxi struggles mightily to first climb and then descend hills, all the while navigating through rocks the size of soccer balls, plus fording a wide but shallow stream. Cows share the road with moto taxis – neither seeming to mind the occasional bumping into each other.

This is main street. The gate to the school is on the right. The town looks to be about ¼ mile in length. I didn’t see any cross streets so I assume main street is probably the only street. It’s difficult to imagine riding this road for another three hours to the village of Tocmoche.

The school has three classrooms plus an administration office/textbook storage room. There are 44 students between the ages of 6 and 12 attending primary classes from 8:00am to 1:00pm. Students graduating from primary have to go to Chongoyape for the secondary level. There are 20 students attending kinder from 9am to 12pm in a separate building constructed two years ago with donations from a charity located in Spain.

Many of these kids are from the immediate area though some walk an hour each way to and from school. Their parents are engaged in subsistence agriculture, and following school each day the kids will probably be in the fields or tending farm animals and poultry. None of them have school uniforms and most of them don’t have shoes, wearing instead the plastic clogs generally prohibited by school policies. Adults in the photo (l-r) are Yayny who is in charge of the vaso de leche program, teacher Isabel, and director Juan. They have been associated with the school for many years.

We were invited to the school because Juan had heard of the activities of Promesa Peru. He asked if it would be possible to provide a Christmas party (Chocolatada) for the kids, as neither the school nor the community has ever been able to afford one. Our visit yesterday convinced us that this community is deserving. Our goal is to provide hot chocolate, Paneton, a clown and music for entertainment and some modest toys for each kid on Tuesday December 20th. If you’d like to help us please visit the Promesa Peru webpage.

Tom

How to teach a rooster not to crow at 4:00am

2011-11-30T15:05:00.000-05:00

Chiclayo is a modern city by Peruvian standards. Burro and horse carts are no longer encountered on city streets, nor are sheep, cows or goats seen in yards or on roof tops (actually cows were never seen on roof tops for obvious reasons. Goats, being much lighter in weight were in the past observed on concrete roofs, but never on thatch roofs, as you can well understand). However the transition from farm to city is not yet complete. With the exception of the very center of the city, the sound of Peruvian songbirds – chickens, ducks and turkeys fills the air.

This is a rooster. He has a harem of about twenty hens all to himself on his roof-top kingdom. He is apparently a very happy rooster. The rooster expresses his happiness by crowing, starting with his greeting each new day at about 4:00am. The rooster does not care one iota that my bedroom is on the other side of the window lower-left. The rooster’s owner is also not concerned about the rooster/bedroom proximity. Two separate discussions with the man had resulted in his essentially saying, “This is Peru. If I want chickens on my roof I’ll have chickens on my roof.”

It is not an exaggeration to state that each and every morning at 4:00am when I opened my eyes in response to Mr. Barnyard Bigmouth’s serenade I fully expected to see him perched on the foot of my bed. His crowing is that loud. This was not a satisfactory situation, so to remedy the problem I did what any reasonable adult would do.

Rummaging through my odds-and-ends tool box I found what I was looking for… a piece of PVC tubing with a ½ inch inside diameter. This would serve well as a ‘blow gun barrel.’ Next I needed to find the ammunition. I considered purchasing ball-bearings at Sodimac but decided against it both because of the expense and the possibility of actually harming the rooster. After all, my intent was not to kill him; simply to modify his behavior via negative reinforcement. A solution for the ammunition was inadvertently stumbled upon during a walk in the neighborhood when Maribel spotted seed pods littering the ground at the base of a tree. The pods are oval, moderately hard, and best of all average about 7/16 inch in diameter. Brian and Maribel soon stopped scoffing when I demonstrated that at about 20 feet I could consistently hit a 4 inch target, accompanied by a satisfying ‘whap!’ sound.

This is Mr. Barnyard Bigmouth a split-second after being hit in the chest with a hard seed pod shot from our dining room window. I hit him on the second attempt…the first just missing his head, causing him to do that stupid head up and down dance that chickens always do when they sense something is not quite right. He didn’t stop crowing immediately after that first hit, but he no longer brazenly jumped up on the wall. I would first see his head nervously appear, looking to see if the coast was clear.

I am happy to report that after taking several direct hits Mr. Barnyard Bigmouth no longer crows from the wall. He continues to crow, but from behind the wall, which reduces the sound to an acceptable level. He still perches on the wall but he doesn’t crow while there. Sometimes when I see him sitting on the wall I open the dining room window and point the tube at him just to let him know that I’m on the alert because after all, chickens are so immature.

Tom

Nothing to do in Peru?

2011-11-29T15:27:00.002-05:00

Recently during a conversation with a visiting American I was asked how I occupy my time. The gist of the discussion was that he had formed the opinion that retirement in Peru would be boring for him. And it probably would be…for him. Enjoyment anywhere in the world is dependent on individual interests and preferences. I can understand for instance how someone whose life is socially focused could be bored in Peru. We don’t have much in the way of live entertainment theater or lounges, golf courses, or country clubs. Those fraternal organizations that do exist are not very active. I can also understand how someone who is locked into a particular lifestyle would find it difficult here. Peru and countries like it are certainly not for everyone.

That’s not to say that Peru is a total cultural void. Last week a group known as the GRIPS (Gringos Residing In Peru) and their wives the CHESGRI (translates to Chiclayo spouses of gringos) met for Thanksgiving at the Pimentel home of one of the member couples.

For me personally I don’t think I could live long enough to be bored in Peru. I enjoy traveling. Within an hour’s time by road I can be in the foothills of the Andes or strolling an ocean beach in any number of coastal towns. By air travel, in addition to the Andes and ocean beaches that same hour can include the Amazon rain forest and the metropolis of Lima. Probably the majority of our traveling is short day trips to different towns. There are still many towns in the area I haven’t seen and nearly all of them have something to offer in the way of a festival, specific object such as the cross at Motupe, or even a unique individual to talk with. There is always a ‘highlight’ to each town that makes the visit worthwhile.

I enjoy history of all eras and subjects. In the Lambayeque and other nearby regions I have at my doorstep the history of the Inca Empire, pre-Inca cultures, and the Spanish conquest – all brought to life in hundreds of archeological sites.

Even though Peru’s economy has shown steady growth during the past six years there is still abject poverty in much of the north. For several years we’ve been involved in charity work, primarily focused on Christmas parties and helping provide the means for kids to attend school in remote villages. It takes time to organize these activities but the reward far outweighs the effort.

Traveling, Peruvian history and charity work are only a few of the activities I enjoy that are unique to Peru. With the advent of the internet several of my major interests are not limited by geographical location. Genealogy is a good example.

I spend several hours on the computer every day chasing ancestors. I am part of the 2% of the population who are not bored to death by family history. When, after weeks or months (sometimes years) of searching I finally discover the identity of an earlier generation in someplace like Bridgewater Pennsylvania in 1785 it is one hell of a thrill…even better than a Green Bay Packer win. Which brings me to another interest provided for by the internet.

Peruvians generally couldn’t care less about American football. Sunday and Monday night NFL games are broadcast on television here unless they are preempted for a soccer game, but on the internet there are ‘feeds’ that allow me to watch on my computer just about any college or pro football game I want to see. During the football season I usually watch 2 – 3 games per week.

Writing is another pleasure the internet helps me with. I enjoy writing. This blog and several other outlets, plus a book I’ve been working on sporadically for several years but will never finish consume chunks of my time each week.

One of my favorite activities not dependant on Peru or the internet is reading. I enjoy reading and normally curl up on the sofa with a book for an hour or two before going to bed each night. I can borrow books from an English language institute here in Chiclayo or can buy used paperbacks inexpensively at local book stores, although there is not a lot of choice in subject matter. I suspect most of the books were left behind by traveling missionaries. I also have books sent to me and load up when I visit the US. I haven’t graduated yet to the electronic book readers and probably won’t do so. For me each book has a unique soul and individuality. I would rather turn pages than push buttons.

As to what we will do on any given day; that is usually determined over coffee in the morning. There is no need to plan unless we’re considering an overnight activity. And we don’t feel compelled to do anything if we’re feeling lazy. There are some days when I don’t leave the house except for a brief walk in the neighborhood… and even then I usually see something of interest.

And that’s how I occupy my time. We have no schedules, plenty of enjoyable activities to do, and all the time in the world to do them. What could be better than that?

Tom

Illimo has a Birthday

2011-11-19T18:31:00.003-05:00

Illimo (E-yee-moe) is one of those long and narrow small towns straddling a major highway in northern Peru. Most of these ‘whistle-stop’ towns are nondescript, uninteresting, dirty and generally not worth a visit, so when we saw advertisements distributed in Chiclayo this week regarding a celebration of Illimo’s 106th anniversary we didn’t decide to go until over coffee this morning when we couldn’t come up with anything better to do. We’re glad we did.

Illimo is a 45 minute bus combi ride from Chiclayo. One of the first things we noticed upon entering the town was how clean it was. Typically there is a lot of trash in the streets of towns like this, but not here. Streets off the highway are also wider than normal and the homes and businesses are well maintained.

The celebration activities are scheduled for four days starting today and are staged in the principal park. Illimo’s economy is mostly agricultural but they also produce a significant amount of honey for the Lambayeque Region, so today’s headline event was a bee-beard contest. Unfortunately I lost the majority of photos I took today, but what happened is that men skilled in bee handling allowed themselves to be covered with bees. To do this a queen bee is placed on the individual and the bees swarm to the area she was placed. Helpers with smudge pots continually apply smoke to the bees to keep them tranquil. When the contest is over the queen is returned to the hive, hopefully to be followed by her swarm.

I say hopefully because there were a lot of bees who didn’t seem interested in reentering the hives. When a group of young bee handlers challenged me to sit next to a hive, I fully expected to be stung but it didn’t happen even though many of them landed on me.

Daniel, who won second place and 200 soles for his effort was completely covered with bees (one of the photos I lost). He was stung once in the belly but shrugged it off. His mother was rightly proud of her son.

We bought several products from one of the many kiosks surrounding the park. This one is operated by Daniel’s uncle.

Illimo has a good feel to it. Though it’s a city and not a tiny village, you can walk the streets in relative quiet on wide sidewalks without the constant din of motos and taxies or the crush of people. It also appears to be a safe town, as attested to by several citizens we talked with. And there’s the cleanliness.

Monday the celebration focuses on music, with several name entertainers from Lima including Cachay and Jackie Castañeda. We might go back. We’d like to try more of the local food, plus it would give me the chance to reshoot the lost photos.

Tom

The Port City of Paita Peru

2011-11-12T10:10:00.002-05:00

Paita is not just another fishing village, though fishing is its major economy as evidenced by hundreds of fishing boats clogging the port, and several modern fish processing plants on the southern edge of town. These companies also process shrimp, clams, scallops and octopus. Paita also serves as Peru’s fifth busiest port, receiving cargo ships from Columbia, Ecuador and many other countries. Ships from the United States unload rolls of paper produced in various paper mills, and leave with bales of Peru cotton and other products including seafood. Still, in appearance it has that same slow sleepy look and feel as do most other coastal towns we’ve seen.

The waterfront area is remarkably clean for a fishing town. There is a lengthy boulevard (Malecòn) that skirts an attractive ocean beach offering a good view of the town and waterfront activities, and also a number of quality tourist restaurants…with inflated tourist prices. There are no standard tourist attractions. A man in the tourist information office who tried hard to answer questions but has little knowledge or information about Paita past or present, indicated the boulevard and an old building serving as the port customs administration as the only points of interest.

The town is not laid out in the typical block grid pattern. Streets are narrow, winding and rarely level, obviously following the contours and dictates of the towering bluffs that pin the village to the ocean. Spanish colonial influence is very evident throughout the town.

We had been told that Paita is a worthwhile ½ day stop and it is, but we had another reason for visiting. We had come to see the port where a ship from a bygone era had docked and provisioned nearly 200 years ago, and from here had gone on to disaster.

On August 12 1819 the whale ship Essex (painting by artist A. D. Blake) left the port of Nantucket Massachusetts with a crew of 20 bound for whaling grounds in the Pacific off the shores of Chile and Peru, a voyage typically lasting from two to three years. The ship made a provisioning stop at Paita in the summer of 1820 to take on vegetables and probably pigs before going on to the Galapagos Islands and then far out to sea.

On February 20 1820 the ship was rammed head-on not once but twice by a solitary bull sperm whale estimated at 85’ and weighing 80 tons. The 87’ ship weighing 238 tons was holed and actually driven backwards. It turned on its side and filled with water within 10 minutes, leaving the crew stranded in three 25’ whale boats one thousand miles from the nearest land. Ultimately only eight men were rescued; five of them by resorting to cannibalism.

Paita today is of course not as Captain Pollard and his Essex crew saw it, but perhaps not too different. They would have recognized this view of the bluffs; semi-white sand beach, and a few buildings not very different in appearance from those in 1820. Had they known what was in store for them they may have chosen to stay.

Tom

Starbucks... meet Maribel!

2011-11-09T13:57:00.000-05:00

In the US while shopping at a mall we would frequently stop for a break at Starbucks for coffee and a muffin. We enjoyed the atmosphere; the coffee was good and the muffins tasty. It’s a different story at Starbucks in Chiclayo’s Real Plaza.

This Starbucks opened about two years ago. We visited it shortly after the grand opening and were disappointed with both the coffee and muffins. Thinking that maybe they needed time to get their act together we didn’t visit again for many months. The second experience was no different. We left believing that we probably wouldn’t return.

Yesterday, for absolutely no good reason we once again found ourselves in Starbucks. And once again were disappointed. The coffee continues to taste bitter, and the muffins we ordered tasted as you would expect a dry, stale, reheated muffin would taste. I once again vowed never to return. Maribel took it farther than that. She put her mostly uneaten muffin in her purse, brought it home, took a photo of it with the receipt and sent an email to Starbucks along with the photo, lamenting more so than complaining about the sad state of affairs concerning Starbucks in Chiclayo. This morning she received a reply offering a refund. I don’t think that’s what she’s after. She’s on a mission to help Starbucks help themselves!

On a different but somewhat related matter, last week while wondering through the dairy products section of a nearby Metro food store we were momentarily stunned to see a large selection of brick cheeses from Crystal Farms located in Lake Mills, Wisconsin. An employee told us they had been offering the brand for two months. We bought the remaining five bricks of mild Cheddar along with several bricks of Monterey Jack and Marble Cheddar. At $4.40 per 8oz brick the cheese is a bit pricy, but damn!... it’s Wisconsin cheese! Now if only the importer; E. Wong SA would add Redwood Creek Pinot Noir to their imports life would be complete!

**NOTE**
As I was about to publish this, Maribel received an email from a Starbuck’s representative in Lima offering to meet with us for coffee in the Chiclayo location to discuss our views. Frankly, because of different suppliers and other concerns I don’t think they have the ability, nor do we expect them to be able to replicate conditions in the US, but we’re both impressed with their handling of the issue so far. We will meet with them and report back on what transpires.

A County Fair Peruvian Style

2011-10-31T17:47:00.002-05:00

Yesterday the 12th annual Feria Ganadera (livestock show) began a six-day run on the grounds of the Livestock Growers Association near Chiclayo’s airport.

Even without the attraction of a fair the enclosed area itself is worth seeing. At any given time it is home to upwards of 300 beef and dairy cattle. The dairy cows are there primarily to supply milk for the government’s ‘Vaso de Leche’ (glass of milk) program for poor kids in the Lambayeque Region. The beef cattle are sold to local restaurants. There are a surprising number of breeds in the pens. Of the dairy cows the Holstein prevails. I recognized Charolais among the many breeds of beef cows.

As for the fair, though the promotional material bills it as a livestock show it has all the ingredients of county fairs in the US plus some things you don’t see in Wisconsin, including a bullfight.

One of the first events was a dog show. The gentleman in the photo showed this Rottweiler and a German Shepherd. He did not win a prize. Those who did received 16, 8 or 4 kilos of dog food for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place respectively. Most of the dogs on the streets of Chiclayo are mutts, but of the rapidly growing number of house dogs (and resultant pet salons!) Rottweilers and Pit Bulls seem to be prevalent.

A display of horsemanship was put on by the police department. Peruvians seem to appreciate equestrian skills almost as much as they enjoy watching the marinara danced.

Strolling the midway one could see kiosks on both sides selling crafts, natural medicines, clothing, and all sorts of candy including the familiar fluffy pink cotton candy. There were live and stuffed animals to have your photo taken with. What were missing were the games of chance - throwing darts at balloons, or balls at milk bottles to win a prize.

In Chiclayo all festivities include lots of food. Dozens of food vendors were offering chicharrón con mote (fried pork chunks served with boiled corn and onions), cuy con papas (fried guinea pig with boiled potatoes) and carne con papas (fried beef with boiled potatoes). And with all that salt, beer stands were doing a brisk business.

As we were leaving a huge bandstand was being erected as evidenced by the half-dozen refrigerator sized speakers being placed on it. I didn’t mind not being there for the music. Before I left the US my doctor cautioned me to never subject myself to the sounds of 300 bawling cattle combined with a billion decibels of mind numbing, organ shifting Latin music.

Tom

A Whirlwind Sampling of Peru

2011-10-28T15:32:00.004-05:00

The last two weeks are a blur for the three of us. Maybe with a few days to recover we’ll better appreciate our experiences but for now we’re in a much needed rest mode.

It began when Maribel and I met my sister Joyce in Lima Wednesday the 26th. Our plan was to spend two days trying to give Joyce a feel for Lima before flying on to Iquitos for Joyce’s first jungle experience, and then finishing up with six days in Chiclayo. We stuck to our timetable but had planned so many activities into the schedule that it often felt as if we were running a marathon.

Lima is a big city. Selecting activities to present a picture of the city in just two days was a challenge but we think we succeeded. We began our tour at what seemed to me to be the natural starting place…the Plaza de Armas. We timed it to catch the changing of the guard at noon at the Government Palace. Following a delicious lunch including Pisco sours with friends at Maury’s Hotel/Restaurant we toured historic San Francisco church. Then it was on to the Museum of Inquisition and Congress. Late afternoon found us back in Miraflores watching the sun set in Parque Del Amor. That evening we were too tired to go out so stayed in the apartment and ate Wisconsin cheddar cheese on crackers with wine.

The next morning found us at the Larco Museum in Pueblo Libre. What a beautiful and informative museum! The displays focus on cultural history, and we were surprised to see a large section devoted to the Moche culture from our neck of the woods in the Lambayeque Region. It is not a large museum but we spent over two hours wondering among the displays and on the grounds which are beautifully landscaped.

After the museum we traveled to Congress hoping to take a tour of the building and perhaps see congress in action, but at the entrance we were told visiting was restricted because a festival was being held on the grounds of the building. Perhaps it was the sad and disappointed expressions on our faces, but as we were about to leave an officious looking man motioned to us to follow him. He led us inside the building; gave us passes and arranged for a guide. It was an interesting tour and we were introduced to several members of Congress. A taxi took us back to Miraflores and Parque Kennedy where we had an early dinner. In the evening we window shopped at the Larco Mar Mall, and then it was early to bed as we had to be at the airport early the next morning.

The weather in Lima during our visit was cloudy, cool and damp. We actually wore light jackets in the apartment at night. The weather in Iquitos is not cloudy, cool and damp. We wore as little as possible and still had to stop frequently to rest and drink liquids. We ran the air conditioner in the apartment at maximum all night. It is hot in Iquitos.

Beside just enjoying the feeling of bring in a remote town on the edge of the Amazon River and rainforest there is a lot to see and do in Iquitos. Some of our activities included visiting a small cultural museum, the Manatee Rescue Center, the Amazon Golf Course, Quistococha Zoological Park, Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm and a Serpentarium on the Nanay River where Joyce was able to touch and hold a variety of native animals including a sloth and snakes. We spent time looking for pink dolphins on a commercial riverboat tour.

We visited two ‘native’ villages where we took part in dances, jungle walks and were taught to use a blowgun. In my view for the most part these are awkwardly staged theatrical productions designed to soften up the tourist for the trinket sale onslaught that follows the show, but there is enough entertainment to justify the time spent.

One of the highlights of our Iquitos visit was fishing for piranhas on the Amazon River. Given everything I’ve heard and read about piranhas I expected them to be jumping into the boat trying to tear us to shreds. Instead they proved to be sneaky sophisticated bait-stealers. Because there were witnesses I am forced to be completely honest here. Three of us fished… two of us caught fish. This was very damaging to my male ego.

Our four days in Iquitos went quickly and we left with mixed feelings – sorry to leave this beautiful setting but glad to escape the heat.

Chiclayo was the last and most laid-back of our locations, though we still kept busy. We revisited the Lord of Sipan museum and pyramids; walked the beach and saw the old train station at Puerto Eten; visited the villages of Eten, Boro and Cayalti, and spent a day in the historic town of Zaña. Joyce also had time to get reacquainted with friends and family members she hadn’t seen in a year.

And now it’s over. Joyce is back in the US and Maribel and I have already begun to plan for next year’s visit. A combination of Machu Picchu, Cajamarca and Tarapoto sounds promising.

The Thirteen Holy Souls

2011-10-27T12:40:00.002-05:00

Not sure anyone knows how 13 skulls came to be placed in this unmarked modest adobe structure in central Chiclayo. One story tells of how a bus accident killed over 50 people and the skulls were a result of that accident. Another account says that a flood destroyed over 90% of the area and that weeks later the 13 skulls were found clustered about a large wooden cross. However it happened, the skulls have reportedly been in this structure for over 100 years, and are visited daily by hundreds of people in need of help.

There is a mystical feeling to the tiny room where often people are standing shoulder to shoulder in silent prayer. There is a traditional oration to be offered to the souls, ending with the promise to recite 13 times daily Ave Maria and Our Father for 13 days. An important part of the ritual is the burning of a single white candle, which can be purchased in a small side room. One source claims that 3,000 candles are offered daily.

Over time more skulls and other objects of a religious nature have been added to the collection, apparently offered as thanks for miracles received. Every inch of wall space is covered with plaques placed there by individuals who are absolutely certain the 13 souls answered their call for help. Most of the plaques simply read… “Gracias por el milagro concedido” (Thank you for the miracle granted), though other more elaborate plaques include a description of the miracle granted. And it is not just Chiclayanos who visit the 13 souls. Many of the plaques have city names from locations all over Peru.

It is my understanding that Catholic Church authorities in Peru neither condone nor condemn the practice of visiting and praying to the 13 souls, though it is likely that an official church position either way would have no effect on the many believers.

Tom

A Forgotten Train Station

2011-10-21T20:18:00.002-05:00

In the mid 1850s Puerto Eten was a bustling fishing and shipping port, supplying goods and food products including fish and sugar cane to much of the Lambayeque Region. The demand for transportation to towns in the region was such that in 1867 it was decided to locate a major train station in the town for the transport of products and people.

By 1875 the station was the hub of a far reaching network to a host of towns including Pimentel, Chiclayo, Lambayeque and Zaña. Puerto Eten retained its position of prominence into the 1920s at which time for a variety of reasons it began to decline into the all but forgotten village it is today.

Behind the village’s municipal buildings is what remains of the once-grand train station complex that stopped operating in 1968. The rusting remains of six engines occupy one of seven buildings still standing. Their boilers have been stripped of many parts but beyond that they appear pretty much as if they had been parked in anticipation of returning to service.

A machine shop looks as if it too is waiting to be put back in action. The manufacturer information is still visible on many of the machines. All of the machinery is from several manufactures in Manchester and other cities in England, and all are date stamped 1870.

These passenger cars have been patiently waiting for more than forty years to once again hear…”All aboard!” That’s not going to happen, nor will the engines ever again have their boilers fired, but there is hope that they will no longer continue to sit neglected and unnoticed. Puerto Eten has a plan to turn the entire complex into a tourist attraction with the help of foreign investors. We hope those plans are realized…these grand old trains and the town deserve a better fate.

Tom

The Mayor died last night

2011-10-03T09:55:00.002-05:00

I don’t even know his name. Most people in the neighborhood simply referred to him as the Mayor. He lived within sight of our apartment and up until a few months ago could be seen most days sitting on a chair outside of his house where he would happily engage in small talk with neighbors and passersby.

Sometimes he would decide to walk to the corner and read or ‘hold court’ while sitting on the street marker. He was not in good physical condition and it was apparent that the walk was painful for him. Sometimes I’d watch his slow progress from our balcony, all the while hoping he wouldn’t fall. Occasionally he’d stumble and catch himself against the wall of a house, but I never saw him turn back.

Whenever I’d leave our apartment I could count on his checking me out to see that I was properly dressed. In the summer if I was not wearing a hat he’d call out, “Senor, el sol es caliente.” In the winter it would be, “Senor, que es frio y ventoso.” He was one of those people you looked forward to seeing and spending a few minutes with…his cheery presence seeming to signify that at least for the moment all was well with the world.

Descansa en paz, señor alcalde.

“Fresh of the moment”

2011-09-29T14:34:00.002-05:00

I opened our freezer out of curiosity the other day and found nothing but ice cube trays. No ice cubes…just trays. The refrigerator below it wasn’t much different, having only butter, milk and eggs as its tenants. I don’t know why the eggs are in there – they’re not sold refrigerated. Eggs here are big and brown and have shells akin to an armored truck. It takes a real effort to crack them, and when you do you’re greeted with a slight musty odor that carries through to the taste. You can buy white eggs at three times the cost of the brown but almost no one does. Keeping eggs in the refrigerator is probably just a habit Maribel picked up in the US.

In the US our refrigerator/freezer had lots of tenants. In the freezer you’d find a variety of pizzas, frozen dinners, turkey slices, fish, ground chuck, ice cream, and of course several packages of Johnsonville Brats. I maintain that if you die without having eaten a brat, your life was not worth living. http://www.johnsonville.com/lines/brats.html
The same can be said for cheddar cheese produced in Wisconsin, which brings us to the refrigerator. Our refrigerator was always full, mostly with cheeses, fruit, sandwich foods and left-overs plus the usual assortment of odds and ends.

Our pantry had a wide variety of canned goods including vegetables, fruit, beans, etc. The pantry also had potatoes, onions, sliced bread and hard rolls. To me sandwich and hard roll are inseparable whether we’re talking hamburger or baloney. If it’s not on a hard roll, I don’t want it. Anyway, the point to all of this is that in the US when I was hungry, anything I wanted was probably in the house. We would do the shopping for the week on Tuesday (for no particular reason) and maybe go into town twice per week for milk and bread.

It’s different here. People are obsessed with “fresh of the moment.” You buy only enough for the upcoming meal and only from a trusted vendor because you don’t want to buy anything left over from yesterday, which is why most Chiclayo women prefer to shop at street markets rather than the large chain stores. While at the market in the morning you may decide to purchase food for dinner tonight, but that’s a stretch. And you never buy anything for tomorrow.

The bigger stores like Tottus, Metro and Plaza Vea do have frozen food sections and canned goods, but they’re miniscule compared to those in the US. Of the canned goods, peaches and tuna are big sellers, though I’m not sure why. Frozen food cases have mostly ice cream, with a smattering of vegetables and turkey burger patties. The fresh food sections have a good variety of fruits, vegetables and meats displayed attractively but I’ll bet the markets just outside sell ten times as much, again because many women are skeptical of how fresh the food really is, plus prices are generally lower.

Personally I would rather take my chances on wrapped meat, fish and poultry in refrigerated cases in the supermarkets rather than the stuff I see hanging from hooks in the sun having flies shooed off of it, but that’s not how Maribel sees it. She’s been shopping this same market and from many of the same vendors long before the supermarkets showed up and I don’t see that changing, though she will acknowledge that sometimes (she insisted I add sometimes) meat purchased from the street market versus Tottus is “muy duro” (very tough).

I enjoy eating most Peruvian dishes and Maribel is a good cook, but there are times when I’d love to open the freezer and take out one of those greasy Hungry Man chicken dinners or Tombstone pizza. Oh well…next trip to the States.

Tom

Boro has got some problems

2011-09-20T13:44:00.002-05:00

During a previous visit to the village of Boro we learned that the village does not have municipal water and that the wells are contaminated - not an unusual condition for many small desert communities. During a recent visit we became aware of an equally important problem, which also explained the piles of bricks laying throughout the village. In March of this year local authorities prohibited new and in progress construction because of the archeological ruins in the nearby mountains. The villagers claim this is a reversal of a decision made over ten years ago when authorities granted permission to farm and build houses on lots where clear evidence of title existed.

As mentioned in an earlier blog (August 8), Boro is a fairly recent community comprised of immigrants from the highlands. Many of them have constructed squatter shacks with the intent of first manufacturing their own bricks at no cost and then constructing houses. Many families were in the process of building their houses when the government edict preventing construction was issued.

Maria Bazan is the grandmother to these five kids. They have been living in these conditions for several years, always with the hope of someday living in a brick house which now is very much in doubt. Four of the kids attend the village school. Much of the family’s nourishment comes from the “vaso de leche” program and a free noon meal from government donated food. Maria’s son…the father of the kids works in Trujillo and returns on weekends. We’re not clear as to where their mother is.

We don’t know if there’s anything we can do to help these people but we’re going to try. Salomon Morante Velasquez (on the left in the photo) who is an attorney and Promesa Peru board member will represent the village in discussion with local authorities in an attempt to find a solution to the building problem.

On Sunday, October 9th Promesa Peru will sponsor a medical campaign at the Boro school as we did at Collique Alto last July. We’ve been told to expect 100 adults and 50 children. We already have the commitment of several doctors and nurses, and have approximately ¼ of the medicine we’ll need. If possible we’d also like to give some inexpensive toys to the kids. It was sad to learn that the only toys the Bazan family has are the make-believe horses the boys were ‘riding.’

We expect it will take another $300 over what we have now to finance the Boro medical campaign. We could sure use some help. If you or anyone you know would be interested in contributing please visit the Promesa Peru web page.

https://sites.google.com/site/promesaperuchiclayo/

We and the people of Boro would appreciate it.

Sugar Cane Towns

2011-08-16T17:34:00.001-05:00

To my knowledge there are five sugar cane factories in the Lambayeque Region. Four of them are cooperatives located in Cayalti, Pomalca, Pucula and Tuman. The fifth is privately owned by Azucarera Del Norte SAC and is located on the route between Chiclayo and Ferreñafe.

Sugar cane towns share a common appearance and purpose. Those we’ve visited resemble raw frontier towns that exist solely to support the factory by providing labor and whatever else is needed. There are no malls, cinemas, chain stores or other niceties. Thick dust on dirt streets is constantly kept airborne by trucks hauling cane to the factories. There is usually no attempt at esthetics either collectively or individually, as if surrender to the desert’s constant onslaught had taken place long ago. An exception we saw yesterday is the town of Pucula.

The center of Pucula adjacent to the factory is as described above, but on the fringe where houses abruptly end and cane fields begin we saw an orderliness and cleanliness lacking in the city center and other towns. There is no liter in the streets. Many of the houses are freshly painted. Beautiful flower gardens butt up against attractive verandas. In talking with some of the residents we found there is a feeling of individual and neighborhood pride.

One woman we spoke with said she had lived in the same house for 49 years and that she and her neighbors have always tried to keep their area “limpio y tranquilo” (clean and quiet). She said that in December they erect a nativity scene in a small square surrounded by their houses and invited us to come back to see it.

We have no idea why these pockets of neighborhood pride exist in Pucula and not in the other towns. It’s not likely that these folks are better off financially. Perhaps we can learn more when we return in December.

Tom

Olmos…the Limon Capital

2011-08-13T12:33:00.004-05:00

After three years in Peru I still don’t know if a ‘limon’ is a lemon or a lime or something in between, but after our visit yesterday I know that the city of Olmos is the self-proclaimed Limon capital.

Olmos is an hour and forty minute $2.90 combi ride from Chiclayo. There are enough small towns in between dotting the desert landscape so that the ride passes quickly. The combi terminal in Olmos is located two blocks from the principal park, which is always a good place to begin exploring any new town. In the park is a sculpture of both a feminine and male hand – the male holding half of a limon. I’m not sure what imagery it is intended to convey.

WASHINGTON -- Welcoming the Super Bowl champion Green Bay Packers to the White House was no easy task for President Barack Obama. The president is a die-hard fan of the Packers' rivals, the Chicago Bears, the team Green Bay beat in last year's NFC Championship Game to move on to the Super Bowl.

Our exploration started at Bravo’s Restaurant, owned and operated by Lilly. After finishing our meals of menù we asked Lilly what there was to see in Olmos. She suggested Santuario Virgen De Nitape, followed by a zoo north of town, and some petroglyphs at the foot of the mountains. And not content to let us stumble around on our own, she hailed a mototaxi driver she was familiar with and made the transport arrangement with us. I know I’ve written this before, but day in and day out what I like most about Peru is the friendliness and helpfulness of small town people.

"I'm just gonna come out and say it," Obama said. "This hurts a little bit. This is a hard thing for a Bears fan to do. It doesn't hurt as much as the NFC Championship Game hurt, but it still hurts."

Our first stop was the Santuario Virgen De Nitape. What happened here was on May 31 1973 Teodora Gonzales, a young village girl was walking when she saw the Virgin Mary high up in this tree. There was some discussion; other people came to the site - some apparently also seeing the Virgin, and a shrine was built on the spot. According to our guide, Teodora is now married and living in Lima.

“… the president had some suggestions for the team (Packers) -- namely trading their quarterback and Super Bowl MVP Aaron Rodgers to his beloved Bears. No word on how that suggestion was playing in Obama's hometown, and with Bears quarterback Jay Cutler.”

During the twenty-minute mototaxi ride to our next stop we had the chance to survey the countryside. My impression was that Olmos could also lay claim to the title of goat and sheep capital - they are everywhere. I toyed with the philosophical question of whether they were dodging us or we were dodging them. The hills surrounding the town and roads have been stripped bare of any vegetation, making me wonder what these animals eat to survive.

Ahhhhh---that beautiful Super Bowl trophy---life is good!

Our next (and as it turned out final) stop was the Asociacion Crax Peru, Pava Aliblanca zoo, which is actually an aviary for endangered species with a few monkeys, turtles and a fox included. It’s not a bad place to spend an hour or so. There is an extensive collection of large birds that make some of the strangest sounds I’ve heard, and they seem to enjoy putting on a show when approached.

We wanted to finish our visit at the Pipochinos petroglyphs but our guide talked us out of it, saying the road was rocky and dangerous and there “really is nothing to see.” In hindsight I wish we would have insisted.

There is nothing unusual or distinctive about Olmos or its people, which we’ve found to be the case with most towns located on major roads. You’ve got to get off the beaten paths to see identifying cultural traits. Still, Olmos offered enough to keep our interest and justify the travel, which is all we ask of any community.

Tom

The Village of Boro

2011-08-08T14:41:00.003-05:00

It was more than one year ago that a friend told us of ancient ruins located high on a mountain not more than 40km from Chiclayo near a village named Boro. He said the locals referred to the ruins as “little Machu Picchu” and to his knowledge the site had never been formally explored. We visited the village and climbed the mountain yesterday.

There is no public transportation directly to or in Boro. The options are to contract a taxi or mototaxi in nearby Pomalca, or to board a combi going to Sipan and get off in the middle of nowhere and walk a mile on a dust choked trail. The village is long and narrow, built alongside the Cerro Boro (Boro Mountain).

On the north end of the village is Lagunas Boro; a pretty blue water lagoon that serves as a potable water source for Chiclayo. Fishing, swimming, littering, and even approaching the lagoon too closely is prohibited and enforced by a shotgun toting security guard.

The village has been in existence for 35 years with many of the original settlers coming from Cutervo in the Cajamarca region. It is not clear whether these people actually hold title to the land. It was just three months ago that electricity and street lights were installed. Despite the lagoon there is no municipal water. Townspeople use wells for water to wash with but not for consumption, claiming the water tastes of salt and is contaminated. As in most remote desert villages stomach parasites and general health are a problem.

According to Consuelo Rivera (right) who is the informal mayor there are 56 families living in Boro. All of them are poor. A mid-day meal is supposed to be cooked every day in the ‘comedor popular’ (community kitchen) for those in need, but often government donated food does not arrive for days at a time. When food is available each family takes a one week turn at cooking. Despite the Reque River being nearby, there isn’t much in the way of family farming. Most of the men work either at a sugar factory in Pomalca or in nearby fields cutting sugar cane. There is no park and, almost amazingly, no church – a sort of town hall serving as a place of worship. There is a three room school and a separate building for kinder which isn’t being used due to lack of desks and tables. A restroom for the school with well water was constructed in 2002.

Climbing Cerro Boro is strenuous and sometimes tricky but not dangerous. Labeling the ruins ‘little Machu Picchu’ is going too far but not by much. The remains of a Moche culture city extend for miles in all directions. Outlines of roads, houses, storage facilities and temples are clearly evident.

A feature I dubbed the ‘great wall of China’ extends for miles north and south. The walls are remarkably well preserved. Another surprise was the lack of looter activity. Ugly looter holes we’ve come to associate with most archeological sites are not apparent here. Consuelo said that tourists do not come here and she is not aware of any government exploration of the site. Our guide suggested that our photos may be the first ever taken of this site… an intriguing notion but likely not true.

There is really no reason to visit Boro…unless you like small towns with friendly people, or exploring the remains of a huge, once thriving city dating back about a thousand years.

Tom

A Family Story

2011-08-04T20:21:00.000-05:00

Miguel and Maria (not their real names) are both in their mid thirties and both are mentally challenged. They have had a relationship for many years, though they aren’t married and don’t live together. Twelve years ago they had a son Luis who until recently lived in an orphanage.

There are two versions of how Luis came to be in an orphanage. In one version the government became aware of “a suspect family situation” and legally took the child and placed him in the orphanage. Miguel has had problems with alcohol and drugs which gives credence to this explanation. In the other version Miguel and Maria realized they could not take care of a child and voluntarily gave him up. It’s probable that even they are not clear on what took place. Whatever the case, every Sunday afternoon the family was together at the orphanage.

Some time ago a family from Spain visited Chiclayo with the intent of adopting a child. After several meetings with Luis the family was sure he was what they were looking for. And Luis apparently felt strongly about them also. Adoption is a lengthy process in Peru as in other countries. As the process was nearing a close Luis made a request of his new family to be. He asked to be allowed to communicate with his mother, and that when he was old enough to work he wanted to be able to send money to his parents. Luis is normal in all respects and knows that his parents are handicapped. Legally, agreement to the adoption was not required from Miguel and Maria, but they were asked and both consented.

I don’t know when the parting took place or what was said. I do know that Luis is in Spain and has started email communication with his parents. I also know that Miguel has said he misses his son but is happy Luis will “maybe be a engineer”. Maria has printed the emails from Luis and proudly shows them to friends.

Tom

A Visit to Tarapoto

2011-07-27T15:13:00.002-05:00

While being heavily rained on in a mototaxi for the second consecutive day, I asked the driver if it rained every day in Tarapoto. His response was…”sometimes.” The ambiguity of his answer for me sums up our entire visit.

Tarapoto is built on a series of hills in a valley surrounded by mountains. The city itself is pretty much indistinguishable from any other Peruvian city of similar size in terms of architecture, design and content. It doesn’t have much to offer in the way of tourist attractions beyond a small museum, the Orquidea Chocolate factory, and the Tabacalera del Oriente cigar factory which we didn’t have the opportunity to visit. The information office located across the street from the principal park is not very helpful regarding information or maps. To determine where an attraction was located and how to get there it was always necessary to ask several people – police, motodrivers, passersby before finally getting an answer, and that not usually very clear. For a city that encourages tourism, it seems to me there has been no effort made to put even a minimal tourism infrastructure in place.

That’s not to say a visit to Tarapoto isn’t worth the effort. There are several attractions outside of town that are worth seeing. The Ahuashiyaku waterfall is one example.

I like waterfalls. I especially enjoy jungle waterfalls. The pungent sweet aroma of wet, decaying vegetation; the calls of exotic birds; the dozen shades of green mixed with a sprinkling of other spectacular colors kept vibrant by mist from the falls all combine to create an attraction that I think appeals to my primitive being. There are many waterfalls located close to Tarapoto. We didn’t get to them but hope to on a future visit.

The town of Lamas located 22km from Tarapoto is regarded as a tourist attraction. Outside of a castle under construction there isn’t any one thing to create lasting memories in my opinion. The view of lower Lamas from the El Mirador tourist park offers spectacular scenery while enjoying a meal or drink.

The petroglyphs of Polish are located just a few miles from town. To reach the site we were told by several mototaxi drivers (who didn’t go there themselves) to look for “a new moto because the road is bumpy and don’t pay more than 15 soles round trip.” We ended up paying 40 soles to the only driver we could find who would take us there. The site is very small and comprised of a few large boulders with petroglyphs on some of them. The caretaker said the petroglyphs date back to the Inca period and were probably roadmaps of a sort. An incident while leaving the site deserves some comment.

When we had arrived at the petroglyphs I noticed two men sitting at the side of the road. They were manning a road barrier which was raised when we entered. In response to my question the caretaker told us the men were Ronderos; self-appointed vigilantes who exist to combat crime. When we attempted to leave the site, the men would not raise the barrier until we gave them a tip. The distinction between Rondero and robber is not clear to me.

Close to town is Laguna Venecia. Other than a small chocolate colored lake there is nothing to see or do. It has the look of what was or could be a tourist park, but the entire facility has the forlorn appearance of something from days gone by. It was deserted the morning we were there. To boot, the two motodrivers we had contracted to take us there and back voiced their unhappiness with our agreement and insisted on more money. As I write this I’m trying hard not to let these occurrences color my viewpoint, but there were simply too many blatant money-grabbing instances like this to ignore them.

We didn’t get to the village of Chazuta because the road was under construction, nor did we see what various tourist publications describe as a “must see” – the town of Sauce and Laguna Azul, mostly because we were short of time but also because we were tired of laying out exorbitant amounts of money for transportation. All of the tour services we saw charged 85 soles per person for transportation and lunch. We were told we didn’t need a tour service, but we’d had enough of dealing with private carriers.

Beside the Ahuashiyaku waterfall the highlight of our visit was something we hadn’t planned on - a very pleasant evening spent with new friends Tony, Herb and Luis at the Stonewasi bar. Mucho gracias amigos.

We will return to Tarapoto to see the waterfalls we missed and the village of Chazuta. And we’ll probably see Laguna Azul. But if someone were to ask me if I’d recommend a visit to Tarapoto, my answer would be an unequivocal …”maybe.”

Tom

A Mountaintop Chocolate Factory

2011-07-25T17:49:00.002-05:00

Nestled atop a bluff on the outskirts of Tarapoto is the Orquidea Chocolate factory. It can be reached by an interesting up and down mototaxi ride (it seems as if one is always traveling either up or down in Tarapoto) from the city’s center.

The timing of our visit was not good – arriving on Saturday when the plant is not operating. On weekdays visitors will be given a tour to actually see chocolate being produced. We were limited to seeing cocoa beans drying in the sun, later to be placed in vats and allowed to ferment for seven days.

The entire production process was explained to us by these pleasant Orquidea employees, who also told us that Orquidea has been in its present location over ten years; has nineteen employees; sells all over Peru and exports to the United States. At present they manufacture nine standard varieties of ‘bars’ but will also produce custom blends and large blocks for resellers.

The ownership of Orquidea was not made clear to me. As I understand it Orquidea was an NGO start-up operation in 1998 with a budget of $30,000 and is but a small part of a larger effort in the San Martin Region to encourage alternate crops to replace coca. The United States Agency for International Development (USAID) and the government of Peru have invested more than $100 million over the past fifteen years toward a goal of eradicating coca production.

The company has several web sites. This one has interesting commentary about local farmers growing cocoa as an alternative to coca.
http://www.peruvianchocolate.com/

Orquidea is attempting to enlarge its presence in the US and then hopefully to other countries. We bought several of each of their offerings and will vouch for the fine taste of their products.

If you should happen to visit Orquidea be sure to take a camera. The view alone from the factory is more than enough to make the trip worthwhile.

Tom and Maribel

Padrinos de Corte de Pelo

2011-07-15T18:53:00.003-05:00

Peru is a land rich in traditions, and though modernization in the big cities may be causing some aspects of that culture to slowly fade away, many customs are still strongly held on to in remote villages. One such custom involves a ceremony centered on a child’s first haircut.

Davis Montenegro is 19 months old. Last month his parents Magno and Juanita decided it was time to get his hair cut. The custom is that family members gather together on the appointed day, and a sponsor or sponsors – “Padrinos de Corte de Pelo” (which translates to Godparents of the Haircut) snips a ceremonial cut of the child’s hair. Photos are taken which will be placed in an album along with the first snips of hair, to be presented to the parents and later to the child when it is older. Then everyone sits down to a big meal. It seems that most Peruvian customs I’m aware of usually involve a big meal somewhere along the line.

When Maribel and I were asked to be sponsors we felt honored and gladly accepted. We had no difficulties with the ceremonial cut, and Maribel kept cutting until the job was done. I don’t know if that was the plan or not but she did it. The only real problem I had was with the meal.

If there is a graceful way to eat cuy (guinea pig) I haven’t found it. The skin is like thick, very elastic rubber; cutting it with a standard knife and fork doesn’t work. There is no choice but to pick it up with your hands and try to bite off the meat without having the skin snap bits of meat all over the table, your dinner companions and your face. I usually don’t succeed but everyone politely ignores my mess unless I’ve showered them too severely.

The Montenegros are good people and Collique Alto is a good place to spend a relaxing half-day. We’ll be back.

Tom and Maribel

A Successful Medical Campaign

2011-07-04T12:30:00.004-05:00

The three-vehicle convey arrived at the Collique Alto School at 9:30am Sunday, July 3rd. By 10:00am the team was set up and processing the first of what would be a steady flow of patients until the doors were closed at 1:30 pm – a full hour beyond the previously announced closing time. Set up involved designating separate classrooms for Triage/Pharmacy, General Medicine, Pediatrics, Gynecology and Dental and the placement of the appropriate equipment for each.

Triage was the first step in the process, where nurses took and recorded vitals including height, weight, blood pressure and temperature, and based on symptoms routed patients to the appropriate medical specialty.

Dr. Rogger Cieza Oblitas dealt with general medicine patients. Due to a missed communication we were without two other general practice doctors so Rogger had a heavy case load. Occasionally one of the other doctors would step in when patients were too backed up.

Pediatrician Dr. Jorge Wilmer Cacho Oliva was kept busy with the many youngsters and also made time to see general medicine patients.

Gynecologist Dr. Jorge Enrique Limo Peredo saw a constant stream of patients. A second gynecologist could easily have been kept busy.

Dr. Francisco Antonio Canlla Ore (second from left) was a huge help to the campaign. He brought with him a number of students from his university dental class, and offered to drive his own car when seating space in the bus was limited. On the right is Promesa Peru board member Attorney Salomon Morante Velasquez.

Dr. Ore’s dental students were a surprise. The professionalism they displayed was impressive. There was no hint that they were students as they handled a multitude of dental problems without any indication of awkwardness or uncertainty.

The final step in the process was the pharmacy, where nurses dispensed the prescribed medications including injections. We ran out of some medicines and had a surplus of others.

A general observation about the system is this – with due respect to the doctors and other team members, it is the nurses who are the backbone of a medical campaign. Much of the work falls on their shoulders, and given the demands for their time they also somehow manage to keep complete patient records and maintain a real time medicine inventory. Special thanks from Promesa Peru to Claudia Seclen Yaipen, Yosi Gil Mendoza, Cecilia Sosa Ramirez, Angie Katherine Cavero Chapoñan, Ana Guerrero Valladolid, and the Nursing College of Peru IX Lambayeque. Our thanks also to Vilma Mendoza, Martin Angeles, Cesar Mestar, and the Regional Director of Health - MINSA for medicine donations, and to Jeff H., Joyce, Ray and others for financial contributions.

Many of the team assembled for a final photo upon our return to Chiclayo’s Las Muses Park – all of them expressing a willingness to “do this again.” And we will. Medical campaigns are a needed and rewarding activity.

What is a “Campaña Mèdica”?

2011-06-29T10:16:00.001-05:00

For many Peruvians located in remote villages, access to medical care is limited. The cost of transportation when available and time lost from earning a living; often a day or more makes going to a clinic in one of the larger cities a luxury except in emergencies. To provide some help to these communities the practice of campaña mèdica (medical campaign) exists. This activity is not sponsored by any governmental agency and is not done on a regular basis. It is an all-volunteer effort by civic-minded individuals and private institutions.

On Sunday July 3rd Promesa Peru is sponsoring a medical campaign at the village of Collique Alto. A medical campaign has four basic elements; medical personnel, medicines, transportation, and an examination/treatment facility at the village. It has taken time to coordinate but we’ve got most of the pieces in place.

Leading the medical team are doctors Juan Miguel Rodriguez Castillo and Maria Mocarro Willis. Other doctors participating are Nieves Juarez, Manuel Muro Tavara and Roger Cieza. Doctor of dentistry Francisco Canlla Ore, who teaches dentistry at a local university is also participating along with ten of his dental students. The doctors are donating their time and supplying their own examination equipment. We have applied to a nursing college for volunteers to join us and hope to have a response soon.

The list of medicines requested by the doctors was to me surprisingly extensive, until it was explained that to the degree possible they actually administer treatment on site to the patients. Needles and anesthetic were requested for use by the dentists. The complete list includes:

Paracetamol, Ibuprofen, Naproxen,
Amoxicillin, Clotrimazole, Ciprofloxacin,
Diclofenac, Albendazole, Mebendazole,
Captopril, Enalapril

We’ve been given an estimate of $300 - $400 to purchase enough units for a population of 200 families. We’re in contact with several pharmaceutical companies and are hopeful we’ll get some donations.

Transportation has proven to be more of a problem then we had anticipated. Several local universities and businesses have busses but provide them for community use only within or near Chiclayo. Recently a private citizen offered his bus for just the cost of the fuel, which we gladly accepted. Collique Alto officials have offered the school as an examination/treatment facility.

This will be our first experience with a medical campaign and we’re looking forward to it. If you’d like to help us with the costs please visit Promesa Peru at https://sites.google.com/site/promesaperuchiclayo/

Thank you

Saviors or cash cows?

2011-06-06T12:15:00.004-05:00

The plane assigned to Delta flight 151 one day last week from Atlanta to Lima was a Boeing 767-300ER. It has a passenger capacity of 269. In December of 2005 when I first took this flight I was one of a handful of non-Hispanics. All announcements were made first in Spanish then secondly in English. Crew and passenger conversations were in Spanish. I remember feeling isolated and a bit apprehensive. The passengers applauded loudly when the plane touched down in Lima, I assumed because they were glad to be home. Last week’s flight couldn’t have been more different.

At about the three-hour mark I walked the isles to stretch my legs and during my tour took note of the ethnicity of the passengers. By my count there were seven obvious Hispanics including Maribel. The plane was full so that translates to 262 non-Hispanics. All announcements were made first in English then secondly in Spanish. Crew and passenger conversations were in English, and based on the amount of conversation and visiting it was obvious that many of these people knew each other.

At the Lima airport we had five hours before the flight to Chiclayo so I took the opportunity to approach two of the groups of people that were assembling after passing through Customs. The first was a group of 45 from five different churches in Arkansas. They came to Peru for a 10-day medical mission and would be going to various towns and villages in the north. Cajamarca was one of the cities mentioned. The second group wore blue t-shirts reading "Peru Mission.” Maribel estimates there were 35 – 40 in this group, and their purpose was to help conserve Alpaca, Vicuña and Paco (Alpaca family) populations in the Andes. With another four hours to kill my conversations with these people provided food for thought from many different angles.

Unless these groups have discounted airline arrangements, the two groups we spoke with represent somewhere around $80,000 in airline fares. During their 10-day visit they will spend money on lodging, food, transportation, and will undoubtedly purchase souvenirs to take home. Let’s assume that those expenditures amount to $25 per day. The math is $25/day x 10 days x 80 people = $20,000. Including airfare the total is $100,000. And that’s just for two groups on one plane. How many other groups have been here; are here; will be here? I wonder what the results would be if you could put pencil and paper to a cost-benefit analysis?

Understand…I am not judging the usefulness of their activities or the sincerity of these people. I am absolutely certain that providing help to Peru in various forms is their motivation regardless of cost. I am less certain about how the Peruvian government and Peruvians in general view their presence. When Delta flight 151 appears overhead, are they wondering if more needed assistance is on the way, or are they thinking that another load of cash cows has arrived? As with most questions of this nature, the truth is probably somewhere in between.

Tom

The evolution of Chiclayo’s taxis

2011-05-16T09:20:00.001-05:00

For younger Chiclayanos and those of us with fairly recent exposure to Chiclayo it’s hard to imagine that the words ‘taxi’ and Tico were not always synonymous. The little yellow three-cylinder 796 cc Daewoo Ticos with five-speed manual transmission are everywhere, and I have no doubt that during peak traffic hours it would be possible to cross a main street by stepping on the roofs of Ticos. Surrounding the principal park there is never a time when from 30 to 50 Ticos are not in view. But that was not always the case.

Prior to Tico importation in 1991 when the car was first manufactured, it was 20 and 30 year old Fords, Dodges, and Chevys that were the primary people movers. Also serving as taxis in those days were various models of Datsun, Hillman, Lada, Peugeot, Volvo and even Volkswagen Beetles. Today many of those old cars are still in service, traveling fixed routes and schedules as ‘collectivos’. As I understand it, Tico import into Peru stopped about the time when production was halted in 2001 to make way for the Daewoo Matiz. During my first visit to Peru in 2005 the Matiz was just starting to make its appearance on the streets.

Over the past few years competition for the Tico and its successor the Matiz has increased, primarily from the Suzuki Alto but also from what seems like a very recent overnight invasion of GM’s Chevy Spark, which in reality is a Matiz with a few cosmetics and the Chevy logo. They’re sleeker looking; come in different colors and add somewhat to passenger comfort with the Matiz and Spark being 6 inches longer and 3.5 inches wider and higher than the Tico. The Alto is the smallest of the three (Matiz left, Spark center, Alto right).

I seldom see a Tico when I visit Lima, and several people have told me that Ticos have been banned from city streets, at least in some Lima suburbs. I don’t know if that’s true, but there is no doubt that Ticos will be seen on Chiclayo’s streets continuing to transport people as well as stoves, refrigerators, furniture and almost everything else imaginable for a long, long time.

Tom

The Church at Reque

2011-05-10T18:56:00.003-05:00

If you like visiting old churches, Lima is the place to be. It has many 16th and 17th century churches that are huge, ornate and intimidating. You know what I mean by intimidating…right? I’m talking about the feeling of being dwarfed by the grand scale of everything. Of being held in awe by the history of the worn marble floors and the somber majestic tones of the ornately carved wood. The feeling that anything other than an expression of reverence or talking above a whisper while in the church would be an unforgivable transgression, punishable by… you’re not quite sure who or what.

San Martin de Thoures church in Reque is not intimidating. In fact it’s the opposite. The exterior is bland and unremarkable. The twin towers have lost their bells and whatever else they contained. The cupola and arch to the rear are a clear indication of the adobe construction, which was completed in 1897.

It’s a different story once inside after passing through those massive doors. There’s certainly a feeling of immenseness and history but the overriding sensation is of warm and vibrant life, perhaps partially because of the cheery colors enhanced by the bright sunlight streaming in through roof-top windows. There’s just something about this place that feels really good.

The townspeople will tell you that what you’re feeling is the spirit of Father Victor Cèsar Diaz Alemàn who was the priest of the church from 1975 until his death September 26 2010. Everyone we talked with said the man was greatly loved and respected. His grave is in the churchyard near the main entrance; the only grave on the property. The remainder of the churchyard is devoted to a community garden started by the priest to provide food for the poor.

Twice yearly, on May 11 and November 11 the town of Reque puts on a festival honoring its patron saint San Martin de Thoures. They’ve been doing this since the sixteenth century. There will be games, rides, music and lots of food. The preparation started today. We plan on being there again tomorrow.

Tom

Bringing people together – a good thing?

2011-05-07T10:54:00.002-05:00

Peru has a population of 29,797,694 – oops make that 29,797,695. Its land mass is 496,226 sq miles, which leads to a gross population density of .02 people per sq mile…lots of elbow room if you live in the jungle or highlands. Not so if you’re a coastal city dweller. Narrow streets and sidewalks plus businesses, schools, universities and even bus stations located in or very near city centers all serve to funnel an increasing population into existing space.

There is evidence that city planning is attempting to deal with the problem. In Chiclayo a major new bus terminal is being planned well away from the city’s center to alleviate congestion contributed to by the departure/arrival of 500 busses daily. An entire new subdivision is being constructed near the city of Pimentel. And yet Chiclayo’s streets are becoming more crowded. One of the problems is that upward expansion of existing buildings in the city is outpacing growth on the cities fringes.

It is not possible to walk more than 4 – 5 blocks anywhere in the city without encountering remodeling involving the addition of several new levels. My impression is that the majority of these building expansions aren’t driven by need but by speculation; the value of real estate continues to rise along with the opportunity to charge higher rent. This building is going to add anywhere from 100 to 200 people to the blocks population, placing increased demand on street and sidewalk space as well as the adjacent park benches.

Chiclayanos are accustomed to bumping and being bumped into when out and about – it goes with the territory. For us imports the concept of ‘full contact’ walking while on the streets or even in a mall, hospital or park is something that takes getting used to.

Tom

Human folly and a school closing

2011-04-17T18:41:00.006-05:00

Pedro Ruiz Gallo is the name of the National University in Lambayeque. It has a reputation of providing a quality education in all fields including medicine. The problem is that classes are often disrupted by protesting students, teachers, maintenance workers, administrative staff, etc. It is a serious problem.

This space is where the Chiclayo extension of the Pedro Ruiz Gallo National University was located until recently. It’s on Balta Avenue next to Elecktra and has been there for 4 years. The staff of the extension, including the director, sub-director and teachers is hired by the director of education at the Lambayeque facility. The school hadn’t done anything during its short existence to attract attention out of the ordinary until the middle of last year when it made national news concerning protesting students who voiced the opinion that the director was too authoritative. Students supporting the director held counter protests. The director was interviewed by news stations and claimed that the sub-director wanted his job and was stirring up the students and parents. The sub-director denied the allegations and claimed the director was incompetent. The director of education in Lambayeque apparently took a hands-off position, hoping the situation would work itself out. It didn’t and after a period of escalating squabbling what apparently happened is that the university, instead of replacing the director or sub-director or both decided instead to close the school.

I don’t know if Chiclayo needed the Pedro Ruiz Gallo school. My guess is probably not, though the out of work employees would certainly disagree. What I do know is that in Chiclayo’s flourishing economy buildings in the metro area don’t sit vacant for long. They’re quickly remodeled or demolished to make way for some new enterprise. Perhaps the students who were formerly educated in this location will instead be able to buy a cheap jewelry item, or gaze in a window at the latest clothing fashion. I hope it’s not a restaurant. We don’t need another restaurant.

Tom

Chiclayo street snacks

2011-04-13T12:03:00.003-05:00

Much has been written over the past few years about Peruvian cuisine. With the increase in tourism and the resultant increase in hotels and restaurants there has also been a rash of cooking schools starting up, as well as new cooking courses offered at the leading universities. Often there are food fairs sponsored by municipalities where cooking schools and universities display the art of cooking and offer to sell their creations to fair goers. Personally, though I enjoy Peruvian cooking, I like street snacks even more.

Street snacks are sold by mobile vendors on the streets. There are actually two broad categories of street snacks based on time of day. In the morning and early afternoon lighter snacks dominate. Toward late afternoon and into the evening the heavy duty, substitute-for-a-full-meal snacks appear in the form of tamales, humitas, empanadas, hot sandwiches, anticuchos and brochetas. We’ll explore those in a future post.

Street snacks are tasty and they satisfy that ‘between meals’ hunger. You don’t have to walk very far to encounter a wide variety of inexpensive snacks offered by corner vendors. Of the lighter snacks nearly everything is available, from candy to fruits and nuts and…well, let’s have a look at some that I enjoy.

Fresh squeezed orange juice is a big seller. Other beverages available are soya, cebada, chicha morada, emolientes, jugo de caña (sugar cane juice), raspadilla (slurpee) as well as bottled water and soda.

This woman offers a variety of baked goods including an item filled with apple. I don’t know what they’re called but I’ve learned how to point to them and say “un sole” (35 cents) which gets me four of them. The man has crackers, candy bars, cookies and juices in his display case.

Slices of pineapple, watermelon, granada, raw sugar cane and higos are popular items especially during the summer months.

Besides an assortment of packaged snacks including powdered pollen, this woman is offering bottles of honey and algarrobina for sale. The honey is processed locally in homes and sold in recycled rum and wine bottles.

Fruit in this wheelbarrow consists of grapes, limas, granadillas and ciruelas. Wheelbarrow vendors are almost never stationary, instead walking regular routes and selling to homes and small businesses as well as passing traffic.

Hot dogs are also available…okay, lousy joke. These aren’t really street snacks, but I had my camera out so what the heck. The puppy the woman is offering is the famed Peruvian hairless dog with its origins in pre-Inca cultures. Custom has it that sleeping with these dogs will cure asthma and bone aliments.

In the sweets category is this baked coconut mixture. Bottom-right in the cooler is the equivalent of a popsicle…known locally as bodoques. Bodoques come in three flavors…tamarindo, coco and fresa, all of which in my opinion are forgettable.

I’ve kept my favorite snack for last. For 35 cents you get six peeled hard-boiled quail eggs in a plastic bag plus a toothpick to eat them with and a light sprinkling of salt if you want it. I always tell myself I’ll eat just one on the spot and save the rest for home, but I never get more than two blocks before looking for some place to dispose of the empty bag.

There are many more snacks that I haven’t mentioned. I will typically buy one or two different items when walking around town, but only from regular vendors that I recognize. Even the locals don’t trust what they refer to as ‘casuals’ …sellers who haven’t been seen in a specific location before and appear not to be experienced at what they’re doing. Nobody wants to risk Montezuma’s revenge.

Tom & Maribel

I watched a woman chase a bus today.

2011-04-11T18:59:00.000-05:00

Maybe chasing isn’t the right word. It’s hard to run with a duffle slung over the back and large plastic bags in both hands. She had sent a boy of about 10 running ahead of her in an attempt to stop the bus. The woman and boy weren’t alone…several adults were running the same race.

Getting a seat on a bus to Lima involves either buying a ticket at the terminal or standing two to three blocks away hoping a bus leaving the terminal has empty seats and will risk stopping in the prohibited zone to pick up a waving passenger. Ticket prices in the terminal are about 40 to 50 soles…on the street it’s 20 to 30 soles. For many people the terminal price is out of reach. Though Peru’s economy has grown 7% annually for the last five years, there is a large segment of the population that the growth has not reached. Chances of boarding a bus on the streets is about 50 – 50. Those who make it will be in Lima in about 12 hours. Those who don’t will find some place to sleep and try it again tomorrow.

We watched the boy, who was also burdened with bags chase the bus for three blocks before giving up. When he returned to the woman who had herself run two blocks she shouted at him a bit, probably out of frustration, because she had to know it wasn’t his fault. We watched the woman, boy and other ‘chasers’ begin the trek back to their starting point. What they somehow missed, and what we had seen from our elevated position alongside the road was that the bus was full. None of them had a chance.

Maybe the woman and boy will luck out yet tonight. If not there’s always tomorrow. When they do get on a bus another little drama will play out. If she’s lucky an understanding attendant will let the boy sit on her lap; not a comfortable situation for either of them. If not, the boy will sit on the floor between her legs. She won’t pay for a second seat, and the attendant won’t kick her off the bus.

Every time I see a scene like this or something similar unfold, I experience all sorts of emotions ranging from sadness to guilt (for watching them) to respect, which the bus chasers would probably not understand. For them and many other Peruvians this is nothing out of the ordinary.

Tom

Mariscal Caceres School

2011-04-08T08:50:00.001-05:00

Chiclayo’s Mariscal Caceres School is located in the La Victoria district and is a five minute moto ride from our house. We were recently invited to visit the school to learn about some projects they would like to implement.

Our initial impression upon entering the school grounds was that this is a happy place…a vibrant, full of life institution with a strong sense of community and attachment. That impression didn’t change during our one hour visit. The school has an enrollment of 800 students in kinder and primary grades, with 400 attending morning classes and 400 in the afternoon. The school does not offer a secondary level. To serve the students there are 17 classrooms and 34 teachers.

The buildings are well maintained and classrooms are bright and cheery and populated with what appeared to us to be well fed, well clothed happy kids. All of the teachers we met had an air of professionalism about them as did the director (center) and sub-director (right).

There are some improvements that Eladio Gonzales, the school’s director would like to see. He feels the school needs a training/meeting room for the use of faculty and parents. He estimated construction cost at 30,000 soles ($10,900 USD). They would also like to construct permanent concrete stadium seating in an outdoor area for school activities. A third project is to upgrade the present computer classroom and add more computers. Of the five they have now two don’t work and there is no money to repair them.

Another interesting project would be to convert this strip of unused land to a mini farm for raising guinea pigs and ducks to sell to raise money for various school activities. The farm would be managed by students to teach them business concepts. The University Cesar Vallejo has promised to develop construction and implementation plans.

We don't feel there is a role for Promesa Peru in this school's plans. The construction of a training/meeting room is beyond our normal scope both financially and philosophically (not really a need), as is the stadium seating project. And while we sympathize about the broken computers, we think back to the school in Collique Alto that has zero computers and a single restroom with no water. Mariscal Caceres School seems rich by comparison.

Providing assistance for the mini farm does meet our criteria of helping people to help themselves, but its our feeling that the parents and teachers of this school are competent and capable of finding a way to accomplish their goals without us.

Tom

The Story of John Augustus Fiegen

2011-04-06T17:43:00.002-05:00

John was born somewhere in Prussia in or about the year 1820. We don’t know anything about his parents or siblings. What John didn’t know was that his life would end just 44 years later in a foreign land and under circumstances he could not possibly have imagined.

Whether he came to the USA by himself or with family is unknown but April 3 1845 found 25 year old John standing at the altar of a church with Maria Elizabeth Hoffman in New Trier Township Illinois. Their home was on what is now Illinois Road, Wilmette, and was then called Reinwald Avenue in the Grosse Point area which was incorporated as Gross Point Village in 1874, and annexed by Wilmette in 1924. From various records we know that John was a carpenter and also served as "Constable of the territory of New Trier". Physically he stood 5 feet 6 ¾ inches tall with hazel eyes, dark hair and sandy complexion. Between 1845 and 1862 he and Maria would have 11 children, though 3 died at birth, one at age 5 and another at 10. Of the remaining 6 children only the first-born, Anna Maria would live a long life. Which turned out to be a good thing for me, but we won’t go into that here.

April 12 1861 was the official start of America’s Civil War. Whether for patriotic or other reasons, John apparently enlisted in the Union army soon thereafter, because his service record indicates that he was a veteran when he enlisted in Chicago in March, 1862 as a Private in Company A Twenty-third Illinois Infantry Volunteers. On March 8 1864 in Greenland Virginia John mustered in for a third enlistment. There’s no doubt that he was a veteran and had seen many battles when hostilities began at the second battle of Kernstown Virginia on July 24 1864. John wouldn’t live to fight another battle. His official military record states that he was…"wounded and taken prisoner at Winchester, Va. on July 24, 1864. Not been heard from since." He was 44 years old.

Now, that statement “Not been heard from since”, plus the fact that records from the infamous Andersonville prison contain a similar name have led to some confusion about John’s fate. But the facts are that in 1868 his wife Maria applied for a widow’s pension, and John’s former company commander in a sworn affidavit said that John had died of his wounds and that his fellow prisoners had buried him on the Kernstown battle field on or about July 24, 1864. A second affidavit was submitted by a fellow prisoner who said he had helped to bury John on the battlefield. Maria’s pension was granted…she received $12 per month.

The army does a good job of supplying records. In response to my letter requesting information regarding John I received numerous documents including his service record, the two affidavits mentioned above, Maria’s pension application, and the one I treasure most…a four page letter to his wife written from Winchester Virginia on June 13 1864 just 11 days before his death – probably the last letter he wrote. It’s written in German, and though I’ve tried several times over the years to find someone to translate it have had no luck. I’ll hold on to it in the hope that some future technology will enable me or someone else to hear John’s words to his wife from that battlefield so many years ago.

John Augustus Fiegen was my great-great-great grandfather.

Tom

The Story of Unknown Filipowicz.

2011-04-04T13:40:00.000-05:00

Jaskiewicze is a small village 3 km north of Indura (formerly Amdur) in the Grodno region of Belarus. Variations of the spelling are Yazkevichi, Jaskevichi, Jaskieviche and there are probably others. One day long ago around the year 1740 a male Filipowicz was born in this village. We don’t know his given name, or the names of his parents. Nor do we know his wife’s name who in 1763 would give birth to Peter and at some later date his brother George. There were probably more children but their names for now are lost in time.

Unknown Filipowicz, like his ancestors before him and several generations after him lived as bonded peasants on a huge estate owned by the family of Vandalin Voitekhovich Puslovski encompassing the village of Jaskiewicze and much of the Grodno region. The peasants had no rights; could not leave the estate without written permission from the landowner and could not even utilize the fruits of their labor with the exception of that which was given back to them by the landowner for their subsistence. Their condition was very close to that of the slaves in the United States during that same time period.

On February 13 1794 Unknown’s son George and his wife Kristina were parents to twins - Janush and Elizaveta. That apparently worked well for them so they did it again on August 27 in 1797 with Lavrentij and Viktorija. Perhaps the children were in answer to his brother Peter, who earlier with his wife (another Kristina) were parents to George (1785), Bartholomew (1786), and Victoria (1789). At this time there were two poor but thriving Filipowicz families in Jaskiewicze, with lots more births to follow. We won’t bother to detail all of them. The one we want to follow is Bartholomew’s son, Bartholomew B. Filipowicz who was born on July 17 1817. And here’s why.

In 1863 a land reform took place in the Grodno region. We don’t know the hows or whys of it, but the end result was that the peasants acquired title to plots of land. An official document transferring the land reads in part:

“According to the order of His Emperor Majesty, the purchasing documents was given to peasants of village Jaskievichi, the former dependant peasants of landowner Vandalin Voitekhovich Puslovski." Among the peasants named was:

"Varfolomej Varvolomeevich Filipovich (Bartholomew son-of-Bartholomew Filipowicz)…got a plot of land:

One garden lot - 953 sazhen (1 acre)

One tilling lot - 8 desjatin 1654 sazhen (23.5 acres)

One haying lot – 1 desjatin 791 sazhen (3.5 acres)

Total – 10 desjatin 998 sazhen (28 acres)

And just like that the Filipowiczes and other peasants were freed and became land owners. Though he had long ago passed on, Unknown Filipowicz would have been pleased.

Property owner Varfolomej Varvolomeevich Filipovich…well, let’s stay with Bartholomew B, along with his wife Rosalie went on to have five kids and many grand kids on their new land. One of them was Kasimir, born January 13 1862 who married Christine Lukaszewicz on November 7 1882. They were married at Trinity Catholic Church (constructed in 1825) in Indura. Jaskiewicze apparently didn’t have a Catholic church as all marriages and christenings took place in Indura.

Kasimir and Christine were parents to Mikhail, Ivan, Michelene, Ignatius, Cecelia, and Vikentiaj in that order, as shown by the first official Russian census of the region in 1897. The new-found freedom and land probably didn’t improve living conditions all that much and like many people during that era some of the Filipowiczes decided to find their fortune elsewhere. Of Kasimir’s children Ivan was the first followed by Mikhail and Cecelia, to try their luck in America, initially settling in Bellows Falls, Vermont. Michael (Mikhail) passed through Ellis Island on June 7 1910. He lived with his brother Ivan (John) and worked at a paper mill. Sometime later he returned to Jaskiewicze, married Theofila and again came through Ellis Island January 30 1913, though his bride didn’t arrive until six months later.

Theofila had just 5 years to enjoy her new life in America. She died on October 26 1918 at the age of 25 during a flu epidemic in Bellows Falls, but not before giving birth to Stanley, Henry and Edward. For whatever reason Michael with his boys left Bellows Falls shortly after his wife’s death, eventually settling in Milwaukee. Michael has passed on, as have his sons, but they left sons to carry on the line.

There are no Filipowiczes living in Jaskiewicze today. The village, never large is almost deserted. I can’t help but wonder what happened to those 28 acres. A few Filipowicz descendents are living in Indura, but they’re mostly older folks…the young have moved elsewhere.

I wonder if Unknown Filipowicz ever gave thought to the kind of life his descendants would have? Could he even imagine a life of freedom and land ownership for his progeny in Jaskiewicze, let alone later generations living a completely different life style in a foreign land? And of course he couldn’t know that some 270 years later a distant grandson living in Peru would be thinking and writing about him. Unknown Filipowicz was my great-great-great-great-great grandfather.

Tom

About being an NGO in Peru

2011-03-30T16:16:00.012-05:00

There really aren’t that many steps involved in becoming a legal NGO (non-governmental organization) in Peru. The trick is to get each of them accomplished within a reasonable amount of time and effort…something that’s easier said than done.

An NGO begins with “el libro de actas” - the book of minutes/records/acts. The primary purpose of this book is to record minutes of each meeting, but it also contains the organization’s constitution plus any official documents relating to the organization’s activity. Pages 2 – 7 of Promesa Peru Chiclayo’s book contain our constitution, spelling out in detail who we are, what we intend to do and how we will do it. The 1st page is reserved for a statement by a notary decreeing that we have met all legal requirements.

Following the notary’s okay the next step is to register at SUNARP. In our case our application was initially rejected because we weren’t specific enough about what we wanted to do, which is why we ended up with a 6 page constitution. Contrast that with the one page necessary to register Promesa Peru Inc. as a corporation in the state of Wisconsin. The rejection meant starting the process over again…drafting a new constitution, getting a notary’s approval and resubmitting to SUNARP. And each step requires the fee be paid again. The document in the photo conveying legal status (document numbers and individual names have been deleted) on us seems so simple when compared to all of the time, effort and expense to get it.

A final step, registering with SUNAT and parallel agencies is not obligatory as I understand it, but carries with it a tax exempt status which would allow us to receive donations of physical property from outside Peru without paying a tariff. Several of our board members are sorting through the regulations to see if registering with SUNAT would be worth the effort and expense.

Now that we’re a legal entity throughout Peru, there’s nothing left to do but help people…right? Well…it’s not that simple. Technically before we can consider sponsoring a project we need to receive a formal proposal, similar to the one we were given by the director of the Jorge Chàvez Dartnell School in Monte Hermoso.

At the conclusion of a project we are required to receive for our records an official document from the organization we have helped acknowledging our assistance. This example document is signed by all three school directors at the school in Collique Alto and recognizes the school supplies recently given to students.

As we become better known in the area there is no shortage of proposals coming to us. In fact this morning Maribel and I were invited to visit a school to learn about several projects they would like to implement. We need to discuss this situation with all of our board members, but Maribel and I are inclined to pass on this one. Perhaps in a future entry we’ll discuss the school and why we don’t feel it is a fit for us.

Tom

A Pyramid Complex at Ucupe.

2011-03-21T21:18:00.002-05:00

Go to any small village in the Lambayeque Region. Ask anyone you see if there are ruins or archeological sites in the area. The answer will almost always be no. Ask if there are ‘huacas’- an object that represents something revered, typically a monument of some kind, and chances are they can direct you to several of them. That was the case recently in Ucupe, a very small village on the Pan American highway 25 miles south of Chiclayo. A forty minute ride in a collectivo (private passenger cars that serve as public transportation) is about the only method of transportation.

The pyramid complex of huaca el Pueblo is one-half mile west of the village. Looking at the complex today it’s hard to imagine that in 2008 it was the center of archeological focus with the discovery of the tomb of the “Lord of Ucupe” and a fabulous wealth of artifacts. See “The Lord of Ucupe” for photos and description.

The main pyramid designated E-1 by the excavation team has several obvious places where excavation (or looting) had taken place and afterwards attempts had been made to restore the original appearance. There is no security or restrictions at the site. In fact there is nothing that distinguishes it from the rest of the desert landscape. The lack of recent looter digging or any other signs of activity seems to indicate that locals and archeologists have no further interest in the pyramids.

The ground of the complex is covered with more pottery shards than I have seen anywhere in the region. Most of the pieces appear to be of the Moche culture and are practical rather than ornamental. The young girl is Kathy. Her house is near the base of the pyramids. She told us that two years ago several gringos had visited the site to “study it.” This would have been the excavation sponsored by the National Science Foundation. She said that “after the study stopped and everything was covered with dirt” to her knowledge there have been no visitors to huaca el Pueblo.

Beside the many pottery shards another feature unique to this site is the horizontal lines on the adobe bricks. I have not seen that at any other site in the region. The lines are on all four sides of the bricks, and are in the interior as well as exterior parts of the pyramids. Bricks at the site of Señor Sipan have markings that supposedly indicate the person or group who made them, but those markings are only on the top of the brick.

At the base of one wall there appears to be remnants of a mural. The colors and placement remind me of several murals at the Ventarron site near the town of Pomalca.

Kathy told us of a legend regarding the gap at the top of the main pyramid. According to her none of the villagers come to the pyramids at night, because the gap opens and swallows anyone in the area ”and they are never seen again.” When I asked her if she believed the legend, she simply smiled, but added that she doesn't come here at night.

It had been an interesting but very hot day and after hiking back to Ucupe I was looking forward to returning to Chiclayo. During the next half hour we watched several full colectivos zoom by. I didn’t want to let on to the ladies, but I was starting to get a little apprehensive about our prospects for the evening. Knocking on doors begging for tamales and sleeping under the stars on a bed of sand has never been my strong suit. But not to worry…when the women had talked themselves out, Maribel got up and motioned to an approaching bus. It was one of those big double deck highway busses with reclining seats and air conditioning that travel the length of the Pan American highway. To my amazement it pulled over. It didn’t completely stop, but it pulled over on the shoulder, opened the door and slowed down long enough for us to board, which Maribel and Betzy did with style and I somehow managed with all the grace of a drunken peg-legged pirate. It felt good to get home.

Tom

In Today's Newspaper...

2011-03-14T13:21:00.003-05:00

...there is an article about our effort to help the school kids in Collique Alto. The article is featured in La Industria’s Chiclayo edition. It talks about donations from the United States and Canada and also about our philosophy of helping people to help themselves.

Thanks for your help. Without you this doesn’t happen.

Tom & Maribel

Awww…do I have to go to school?

2011-03-09T18:45:00.002-05:00

Wednesday, March 9th and it’s the first day of the new cycle at I.E.P.N 10841 Jose Carlos Mariategui school in the village of Collique Alto. National schools officially open throughout Peru on March 1st but in the less populated areas opening day is determined by the individual communities.

This is the class room of Mrs. White; one of 11 such classrooms. Her students are in the second grade of primary, which contains 6 grades in total. The secondary level has 5 grades. Mrs. White has been teaching at Collique Alto for 8 years. Today will be mostly orientation. Students will receive their government supplied text books and be given the notebooks, pencils, pens, rulers, erasers and paper provided by you, some of which are displayed on the desk. Thanks to the amount of donations received we were able to purchase additional items for the younger kids such as scissors, glue and a coloring notebook, and for the higher grades bi-color pens.

All of the 18 registered students for Mrs. White’s class were in school plus one unregistered student (no problem…we had purchased extras so were prepared). When she commented that it was unusual to see so many students on the first day, we asked what she thought accounted for the additional kids (we were hoping to hear her say Promesa Peru…we’re only human). Instead she replied, “Who knows?” :(

We think these kids know. Some of these folks provided money and some are contributing in other ways. Gracias.

Kinder is in a different building on a separate piece of land. Monica (in shorts), who is the kinder director told us 10 days ago that she had 12 kids registered. She phoned two days ago to say she had 3 more. Maribel suggested we plan for 20, and that’s exactly how many kinder students were there.

Did we accomplish anything today? No doubt less than we’d like, but perhaps more than we’d expect. There’s no question in our minds that the large number of kids at school today were there because parents had gotten the word that Promesa Peru was providing school materials. We’d like to believe that what we provided is opportunity. That’s really all we can do. Now it’s up to the kids and their parents to continue the momentum. There may not be a future president in any of these photos (though I wouldn’t bet against the girl looking at the camera) but if not it won’t be because you weren’t there for them. They know that. Thank you.

In appreciation:

I’ve got a dilemma

2011-03-06T10:03:00.000-05:00

I’ve got a dilemma, or at least it feels like one to me. The intent of this blog is to record my experiences in Peru, and secondly to provide some insight to daily life in Chiclayo to family, friends and others who may be interested. Since the formation of Promesa Peru – a charitable organization Maribel and I are members of, I’ve been devoting a lot of entries to that activity. The truth is I really don’t want to do that…not on this blog. I’d prefer to write about visits to small towns, or archeology sites, or interesting people or situations, or some facet of everyday life.

What I’m struggling with is this…I believe strongly in the work Promesa Peru has done and is doing and there are still many situations where we could be helping people to help themselves, but not enough people know we exist. Getting donations is all about numbers of readers and until enough people find the Promesa Peru web page the only means we have to reach them is this blog. Now, I’m not interested in having the world’s most read blog and if people lose interest in what I have to say that's okay, but I don’t want readers to leave because every other entry is asking for money.

We’ve recently tried another approach to reach potential donors. We sent emails to fifty Peruvian restaurants across the United States and Canada, asking them to make our brochures available to their customers, and in return offering to list their restaurant on this Promesa Peru web page:

https://sites.google.com/site/promesaperuchiclayo/home/hungry

As of this writing we’ve received eight replies. We know there are hundreds of Peruvian restaurants in the United States alone, but even those with web pages often do not have an email address so are difficult to reach. If you clicked on the page address you may have noticed there is only one participating restaurant in New Jersey, and none in Los Angeles or Miami where thousands of expatriate Peruvians live who might help us if they knew we were here.

So instead of asking you for a donation, can I ask this of you? Do you have a favorite Peruvian restaurant nearby? Would you be willing to ask them if they would display our brochures in exchange for free advertising? After they’ve said yes, and I can’t imagine why any restaurant would not want to do that, send an email to me at promesaperu2@gmail.com with the restaurant’s address and contact name and we’ll have brochures in the mail within two business days.

Please think about it - if we can reach thousands of people through a restaurant network I won’t have to use this blog to ask for donations, which will solve my dilemma, and you won’t have to experience that, "geeeze…he’s asking for money again!” feeling. Sounds fair to me.

Tom

Class room or farm field?

2011-02-28T17:32:00.002-05:00

How do you progress from a perennial third world country to a developed nation? While there may be several valid answers to that question, we believe that education is the foundation. Too many kids, especially in the less populated areas of Peru are working in the fields instead of learning in the classroom. It’s not that the parents of these kids want to deprive them of an education – in fact it’s the opposite, but what do you do when the money for a school uniform, tuition and notebooks just isn’t there?

Collique Alto is one of 23 caserios (a community too small to be classified as a town) in the district of Pucala. Many of these villages are lacking in basic services including a clean water supply. Individual homes are often without water and electricity.

The school at Collique Alto, named Jose Carlos Mariategui doesn’t require uniforms and in most cases forgoes tuition (teachers are mostly volunteer and there isn’t much overhead). But there is no avoiding the need for school supplies. The school’s total enrollment is 155 students from kinder through secondary. The average cost per student for all needed items is about $15 per student, which comes to $2325. We want to help, though we don’t feel that amount is realistically within our means, nor do we necessarily want to relieve the families of all responsibility, in keeping with our credo ‘helping people to help themselves.’ We believe the following is a reasonable goal:

Basic school supplies list:

Notebook (math) $1.10 x 155 = $170.50
Notebook (literature) 1.10 x 155 = 170.50
Pencil (plain) .20 x 155 = 31.00
Pencil (bi color) .25 x 50 = 12.50
Eraser (large) .20 x 155 = 31.00
Ruler .11 x 155 = 17.05
Folder .75 x 155 = 116.25
Paper (poster 100) 5.50 x 1 = 5.50
Paper (plain 1000) 8.00 x 1 = 8.00

Total = $562.30

Thanks to donations already received we’ve got a good start but time is short and we need more help to get the rest of the supplies. School is scheduled to open March 7th. Wouldn’t it be great if all eligible students in Collique Alto were in school on that day with pencils and notebooks in hand?

And there will be other projects following on the heels of this one. For example, the sanitary facilities at the school need improvement. We have had one meeting with a representative of the Mayor from Pucula and will do everything we can to get water connected to the restrooms, and toilets and sinks installed. We’ll need your help. Please visit the Promesa Peru web page. It’s got a donate button. :)

Tom

The Montenegro Family of Collique Alto

2011-02-20T20:58:00.002-05:00

This is the home of Magno and Juanita Montenegro and their 6 children. Magno built the house himself eleven years ago with the help of neighbors. The adobe bricks were manufactured “near the river” and hauled to the building site by burro cart. Previously the family had lived in the lush, forested mountain side village of Santa Cruz where they had a small farm with livestock and cultivated acres, but that all changed when their son Samuel at one and one-half years of age experienced an extreme fever followed by convulsions. Unable to get immediate medical help, Samuel suffered permanent brain damage. The cost of medical follow up and medication soon ate up the family’s savings and ultimately took their farm.

Hoping to start over and rebuild their lives, Magno, Juanita, Esther and Samuel, now 16 and 13 moved to Chiclayo where job opportunities were better. They lived in a one room house until a friend offered them the use of her small home in Collique Alto. After living in the home for a few months and earning a living working as a field hand, Magno became aware of a plot of vacant government land outside of the village. He cleared the plot, made application to the government for the land, and with the support of neighbors was awarded the land at no cost. Since then Flor 11, Lisbeth 9, Sonia 3 and Daves 1 ½ have joined the family.

Good paying jobs are scarce in Collique Alto (as they are in most of Peru) so both Magno and Juanita work as field hands when work is available. In addition Magno, who is a young looking 40 attempts to sell Gano Excel brand natural medicine. While the parents are out working Flor and Lisbeth take responsibility for cleaning the house and looking after Samuel, Daves and Sonia. On an average day the family income is about 18 soles ($6.52 USD), but there are days when there is no income. They have a cow for milk, raise ducks for meat and grow vegetables behind the house so they’re self sufficient for the short term regarding food. There are no utility costs; they don’t have electricity, they have well water and cook outside with corn cob fuel and wood taken from the desert.

The oldest daughter Esther spends school vacations living with relatives in Lima and working as a domestic servant. She normally saves enough money to pay for her own school supplies and clothing. Still, sometimes tough choices need to be made between new clothing, school material, replacement household items and other necessities. Magno acknowledged that frequently it is Samuel’s medicine that looses out. We watched Samuel (flanked by Maribel and Betzy) closely during our visit. His verbal communication is limited to grunts. He smiles a lot and obviously likes attention, but without his medication to control his emotions he is subject to brief episodes of rage. We saw him swing a belt in what looked like an attack on his sister Flor.

The Montenegros are good people. When Betzy mentioned to Magno that I had commented about how quiet and peaceful the area is, Magno took Juanita aside for a moment and after a brief discussion promptly offered a piece of their land to me to build a house.

We want to help this family. It’s probably been years since Samuel has seen a doctor. We’d like to arrange for that to happen and also determine what medicine is needed and see if we can get it at a reasonable cost so he doesn’t have to go without. We’d also like to buy school supplies for Esther, Flor and Lisbeth. In fact, at a cost of about $15 per student, we’d like to insure that on March 7th all the school-eligible kids in Collique Alto who need help have the supplies and clothing to attend school. If you would like to help us please visit the Promesa Peru web page. It’s got a ‘donate’ button. :)

This is the school the Montenegro kids attend. Jose Carlos Mariategui reflects the extreme poverty of the community. The school has three main buildings that house the classrooms and administration offices. They appear to be in reasonably good condition but could use some fresh paint inside to brighten things up. A forth smaller building located some distance from the classrooms serves as the restroom. It is used by students and teachers.

This is the restroom interior. It may shock you, but we wanted you to see the facility that Esther, Flor, Lisbeth, Sonia and the other kids have been and will be using when school opens again March 7th. The school has water, but there is no connection to the restrooms. We don’t know why boards haven’t been nailed together so people don’t have to ‘squat’ unassisted, or why buckets of water to wash hands are not available. Our questions went unanswered.

We were told that the Mayor of Pucala needs to approve the finances to run and connect water to the restroom. We hope to visit him next week, and if we’re successful in getting running water to the restrooms we’ll see about getting toilets and sinks in place. It’s not possible to educate kids about hygiene using what they have now as an example. We’ll keep you posted on our progress. In the meantime, please think about helping those kids to attend school.

Tom & Maribel

The Mythical Naylamp and the Chotuna-Chornancap Pyramids

2011-02-09T15:02:00.006-05:00

Legends differ regarding where Naylamp and his entourage came from, but all agree that he arrived on the shores of the Lambayeque Region sometime after the demise of the Moche culture, and was responsible for the rise of the Chimú and the Sicán (often used interchangeable with Lambayeque) cultures and the rebuilding of civilization in the region. The pyramid complex of Chotuna-Chornancap, located 10 miles to the southwest of the city of Lambayeque and discovered in 2008 is the physical ruin most closely associated with Naylamp.

Chotuna doesn’t see many visitors. Asking someone in Lambayeque how to get to the pyramids results in quizzical looks or at best vague arm motions indicating ‘somewhere out there.” We recently made our second try to locate the site. The first, 8 months ago ended with a terribly lost and confused moto driver dumping us in the middle of nowhere, leaving us to walk back to Lambayeque. This second attempt found us in a moto taxi on what amounts to a goat trail with a driver who stopped several times to ask directions from field workers. The 25 minute ride can best be described as a chiropractor’s delight.

After paying the 5 soles admission charge visitors are escorted to the one-year old site museum. The museum doors are unlocked only when the occasional tourist succeeds in finding the location. Once inside, the tiny museum is impressive with a wealth of written information and artifact
displays.

The artifacts on display are original with many found in the complex. This tumi, or sacrificial ceremonial knife greets the visitor upon entry. Several sacrificial knives were found in a pyramid apparently dedicated to sacrifice.

The Sicán, Chimú and Inca cultures are known to have practiced human sacrifice at the Chotuna location. The museum has the remains of several victims on display, including this young boy.

Most of what is known about Peruvian cultures comes from their pottery, and the museum has fine examples of beautiful pottery dating from the Moche, Sicán, Chimú and Inca cultures.

Many of the more impressive artifacts, including murals and the excavated temple of Naylamp are located at the pyramid Chornancap, seen in the far distant center. We were told by museum staff and the moto driver that there is no possibility of getting anywhere close to Chornancap, and even if we could get there the site is closed to visitors. Which to us is the major problem of the complex.

Tantalizingly close to the museum is the pyramid Chotuna. You can almost hear ancient voices enticing you to walk the ramp to the entrance door, but the voices of the museum staff speak louder. Like Chornancap, Huaca Chotuna is closed to visitors. In fact, leaving the immediate area of the museum grounds is prohibited.

As informative as the museum is, and as rich as the site’s history is, without being able to at least make contact with the pyramids a visit to the Chotuna-Chornancap complex is incomplete and not worth the effort.

Tom

Iquitos and the Mighty Amazon

2011-01-26T19:42:00.003-05:00

Back in the forties and early fifties the movie houses always showed ‘news shorts’ before the main feature. Frequently there were 30 second clips on the ‘Amazon Jungle and the mighty Amazon River.’ The jungle had lots of monkeys and huge snakes and other dangerous things, but even worse were the Jivaro head hunters. These guys were fierce. I mean, before you could say “Hello, my name is…” Whap! - your head would be in a pickling pot with your lips sewed shut. We kids (and quite a few adults) used to fantasize about the Amazon and vowed that when we grew up we’d go there. It took more time than expected, but I finally made it.

Iquitos is a city on the Amazon accessible only by air or boat. It is the place I would recommend to anyone who could visit Peru only once in their lifetime, because Iquitos is a composite of almost everything Peru has to offer.

The city itself has three ‘faces.’ The inner city is not much different from any of Peru’s major cities or larger towns. Anyone from Chiclayo, Arequipa, Cajamarca or even Lima would feel a familiarity walking the streets.

A second facet of the city is the river shore inhabitants. This would include Belen to the south and the fringe area bordering the city’s east side, as can be seen while walking the malecònes Tarapaca and Maldonado.

A third distinct segment is what appeared to me to be new communities being carved out of the jungle on the city’s south side. I say “appears to be new” because in Peru what looks new may be ancient or vice versa, probably because the architecture and building materials don’t change. Houses in this section are being built with untreated lumber and thatched roofs as they have been for centuries.

Several characteristics stamp Iquitos with a distinct personality. First would have to be the comparative scarcity of taxis and other private autos. In their place are thousands of moto taxis and motorcycles. Only in the jungle or outskirts of the city can you escape the sound and smell of these metal beasts. The heat and humidity were to be expected but still, the first step off the plane at the airport was like being confronted by a hostile living force. Another difference is the speech pattern of the Iquiteños, which is sing-song and melodious compared to coastal city dwellers.

And speaking of the residents, I would bet that as a percent of the total population, Iquitos has the largest gringo population of any city in Peru. There is almost never a time when several are not in view. Some are tourists, but the majority we saw were unquestionably residents, with many of them projecting an image of having ‘gone to seed’ over time. Whatever it is in Peru that brings out that ‘free spirit’ look, Iquitos has more than its share. There is even an English language newspaper – the Iquitos Times.

There is more to do and see in and about Iquitos than I expected. We managed to see everything we wanted to in five days, but just barely. A trip to the excellent tourist office will provide the visitor with maps and most of the standard tourist options.

Among the standard attractions we saw were the Manatee Rescue facility, sponsored by the Dallas World Aquarium, and that same day the nearby Quistococha zoo/lagoon/park complex. Both were worth the time. One of the attractions I reluctantly agreed to was a boat ride up the Momòn River to visit the Yahùas tribe. I was reluctant because I expected to see a theatrical production followed by various approaches to extract the last penny from my pocket…which for me is exactly what it turned out to be. Enough said about that. Subsequent days found us at the Amazon Sculpture museum in the city, and the ‘Serpentario’ located on the Nanay River, also enjoyable experiences.

The Belen market is worth seeing, but it is not a pleasant area in terms of sight and smell. Most people we talked with told us to avoid the area after 5:00pm because of pickpockets.

The activities we enjoyed most were ones we created ourselves. Boarding a colectivo at one of the terminals and riding it to its destination terminal is a good, inexpensive way to see the city. It’s also a cooling experience during the heat of the day as colectivo windows have no glass.

If you’re willing you can walk a long way along the river front in either direction from the Boulevard. Each step reveals a different perspective of the river shore inhabitants and their daily lives/activities. It was interesting to watch the river boats being unloaded at the Produce Market. It was mostly bananas and charcoal we saw being unloaded.

One of our favorite activities was to ride a moto taxi to the port of Nanay, and there to charter a peque-peque to take us to various destinations we selected on the Nanay and Momòn Rivers. We were told they don’t go on the Amazon as the current is too much for a peque-peque to handle. You don’t need a guide. Simply point to the place on a map that you would like to go and then negotiate the price with the captain.

Though there is lots of boat traffic on the rivers, riding on the Momòn River instills the feeling of a wild river and jungle environment without having to travel for many miles at significant expense. Incidentally, during our five days in the city, on the river and in the jungle we never saw a mosquito.

Walking the boulevard; stopping for a meal or cool drink (camu-camu became our favorite) and people watching is a relaxing pastime, especially toward sundown when the place comes alive. It reminded us a bit of the bohemia feel of Lima’s Kennedy Park and of Mancora.

I can understand why people would be attracted to Iquitos. It’s got something for most everyone plus there’s the attraction of the wild jungle just around the next bend in the river. The Jivaro head hunters are gone, but hey!...you can’t have everything!

Tom

Soldier's Field – Sunday – 3:00 pm EST

2011-01-17T10:48:00.006-05:00

The Green Bay Packers and Chicago Bears play for the NFC Championship and the right to go to the Super bowl.

Those words will be the impetus for heated discussion throughout much of the United States, and will trigger all out brawls on the border of Wisconsin and Illinois. In those two states little else will be talked about this week, and on game day…well, forget about it. Shopping malls will be deserted, church services cancelled (except for special “Let us pray to beat those b*******!” services). Streets will be empty, and anyone daring to place a phone call during the game will be greeted with words from the recipient that will cripple them emotionally for years.

Moderators of internet discussion forums ranging from day care centers to doggy salons will be working overtime imploring posters to “Please keep it clean and no personal insults!” It’s hard to overstate the Packers - Bears rivalry. Anyone unfamiliar with the rivalry (perhaps someone living in Borneo) would think the Wisconsin State motto is “The Bears still suck!” And in Illinois one would believe there must be a state law requiring citizens to mention the “Green Bay Pukers!” at least 5 times daily.

The following post from the official Chicago Bears discussion forum is typical:

“I might have to say that this could wind up being the biggest sporting event that Chicago has ever witnessed. I am a big Sox fan and Blackhawks fan and the Championships were great, but this game has the chance to put me into a state of depression that I might not come out of if we were to lose. We have 1 game, not best out of 7. Whatever they (Bears) need to do to win this game, they must do it. Pump extra noise into the stadium, make the field worse than it already is, food poison them (Packers) at the hotel, play unfair and knock a couple of guys out and deal with the fines later. Do whatever it takes to win this game!”

And where will I be on Sunday? Will I be sitting in front of the TV with fellow expats; a beer in one hand, a slice of pizza in the other shouting for my beloved Packers to score? Oh, noooooo. In a moment of pure insanity we scheduled a five day get-away. I’ll be in the jungle near Iquitos Peru, probably saying something like, “Oh look Maribel! - there’s another monkey!” Am I stupid or what?!

Tom

GO PACKERS!!! THE BEARS STILL SUCK!!!

Cayalti – the next jet-setter destination?

2011-01-10T13:03:00.001-05:00

The town of Cayalti evolved many years ago around an ancient and now unused sugar cane processing factory. The rusting metal hulk of the factory is silent, as are the three huge administrative buildings nearby. Any visitor to Cayalti would dismiss the town as nothing and quickly move on. But they're overlooking the potential. What I see is the sprawling, glitzy Cayalti Resort Complex…the place to be for anybody who is anybody. Here's the deal.

Take a look at this artist’s rendering of the complex. Can you start to see the possibilities? You’ll get even more excited as we take the tour. Let’s start at the beginning with the hotel.

This will be The Tombs hotel. It is as deep as it is wide. It used to be the administrative offices for the sugar factory. We remodel it with early Moche culture architecture and décor. We’re talking swank. I can see a central swimming pool, exercise facilities, saunas, etc. And the hotel lobby is where the hiking tours into the nearby mountains begin.

Behind the hotel is the Moche Temple Restaurant. Just look at this thing! It reeks of grandeur and sophistication. Beautiful people dressed in their $2000 suits and gowns will be pulling up to the door in gleaming moto taxis, eager to lay out $150 per plate for cuy and other authentic Peruvian cuisine. People will learn to associate The Moche Temple Restaurant with elegant dining.

Here we have the Cayalti Casino. The architecture is identical to its adjacent sister building the Moche Temple Restaurant with the exception that it is 1/3 larger. It will hold a casino to rival those in Vegas. And the place is big enough to include a large showroom for name entertainers. We’ll have to start out modestly with names like Julio Iglesias and Trini Lopes, but as we grow we’ll be able to bring in the heavy hitters. And we’ll have courtesy communication between the two buildings so the people waiting for a table at the restaurant can gamble at the casino.

Smack in the middle of our complex is the town’s principal park. We’ll call it Inca Parka. It will serve as the central connecting hub for all of our attractions. The park is near-perfect for our purposes. It’s big, attractive, has lots of benches, and is well lit at night. We’ll place four to six ‘Inca Temples’ in the park…upscale outdoor bar/snack locations with Incan uniformed staff; each oasis offering snacks and drink unique from the other.

This is the Human Sacrifice Bar and Grill. It’s now a senior center for old guys who play checkers and cards but we’ll turn it into a trendy place with beer, mixed drinks and chicken wing type stuff with live music. This is where people who don’t feel like gambling at the Cayalti Casino or dining at the Moche Temple restaurant will likely start their evening.

How about this for a promenade? We call it the Inca Trail. It’s wide and goes on forever. We close it off to vehicle traffic and put seating islands amongst the foliage down the center. On each side of the street I see upscale, one-of-a-kind shops offering original artifacts (legally of course), handmade silver, gold and precious stones jewelry, and Alpaca items from grade AAA wool. Scattered amongst the shops would be upscale lounges where shoppers can pause for refreshments.

Groupo Sink Hole runs parallel to and only 50’ from the Inca Trail. It represents the seamy side of our complex. It is the polar opposite of the Inca Trail, containing bistro joints and bars, blues bungalows, starving artist kiosks, cevicherias, chintzy trinket stalls and in between a few dimly lit storefronts dealing in ‘other’ goods and services. We won’t be able to keep up with the demand for "I’ve been to Groupo Sink Hole" T-shirts

I don’t know what we do with this place but it's got too much potential to ignore. The stairs stop at concrete walls. That freaks me out. Ya gotta wonder what this place was. Maybe we could make a Vegas style wedding chapel out of it. It would be great for bridal party photos.

After our guests have indulged extensively and spent heavily at the other attractions, there’s still Opium Alley. Look at this passage way…the one under the bell. Can’t you see a bunch of small opium dens scattered along the winding path, with hashish shacks and tattoo shops in between and Incan flute music softly blanketing the whole area? Stoned and tattooed…what a great way to finish the day!

Well…that concludes our tour. What do you think? Can you hear that ‘ka-ching’ sound? We’ll have to build a small airfield for private jets, and then we need to think about where to put the waterpark, and…oh oh…gotta go. Paris and Nicky Hilton just walked into the Tombs Hotel lobby. They’re not going to like hearing that Brad and Angelina arrived minutes ago and reserved our last room, but it's their own fault. Next time call ahead.

Tom

About taking photos

2011-01-06T13:47:00.003-05:00

The list of photographic subjects in the Lambayeque Region is endless. There are historical sites, colonial buildings, street markets, mountains, beautiful desert shrubbery and many more. Day in and day out what I enjoy photographing most is people. I don’t mean the standard ‘this is my cousin and her uncle’ photo. I look for that rare moment when the person (or people), setting, time and circumstances all come together to voice a statement. Ninety-five percent of the time when that type of opportunity presents itself I miss it, usually because I’m too late and the moment has passed. Sometimes I think I got the shot only to discover it’s not there when I get home. All the pieces are there but the substance is missing. The camera obviously didn’t see what I saw, perhaps because what I saw was as much a feeling as physical objects. Another reason it is difficult to photograph people is because Peruvians like to pose. They want to sit or stand erect with hair in place, clothing smoothed and a serious expression on their faces…which often destroys the effect that caught my attention to begin with.

Catching Peruvians in a candid situation is hard to do, but sometimes their posing actually creates the effect I’m looking for. I saw the head of this woman looking at me from inside her doorway and was wondering if I could get a photo of her peeking at me, when she suddenly came outside with the little girl in hand, and then struck this pose. There is a lot in this photo that speaks to me, with the repaired sandal having the loudest voice.

This man was also watching us through a window. As we approached his house he stepped to the doorway and motioned for us to come inside. For whatever reason he apparently wanted to show us the corn shucking process he and the boy were doing on corn probably grown on the plot behind his house.

We saw this family hurriedly setting up for a photo as we drew near their house. This photo…like the others above speaks to me of pride and dignity. The message is, “We sell fish!”, which is probably what their ancestors have been doing for generations in that same house in that same small village. Other sources of income likely come from the moto taxi and portable food kiosk in the background.

I have no idea who this man is but couldn’t resist taking the photo. His clothing, like something a cartoon character would wear is what initially caught my attention. The contradiction of the lettering above his head and his being asleep didn’t dawn on me until later. Perhaps readers in Trujillo can tell us something about him.

These are just four of hundreds of photos that I call favorites. But perhaps they don’t speak to you as they do to me, and that’s okay. I believe that photos capture not only what we see but a part of who we are, and we are all different.

Tom

Peru successfully repels Muñeco invasion!

2011-01-01T12:54:00.004-05:00

For centuries relations between the nations of Peru and bordering Muñecostan have been stormy, with violent border skirmishes a frequent occurrence. Last night in vicious street fighting seen throughout the country, courageous Peruvian citizens met and soundly defeated invading Muñecostani forces. Nowhere was the fighting more ferocious than on the city streets of Chiclayo.

For the past two days Muñecostani forces at the squad and platoon levels were seen secretly assembling all over the city; their attempts to ‘blend in’ largely unsuccessful as sharp eyed Chiclayanos noticed ‘unnatural mannerisms,’ and even children were heard to exclaim...”There is something different about those people”.

What sounded like sporadic shooting was heard across the city at approximately 11:45pm, followed by a barrage of explosives exactly at midnight. Commando units from the Muñecostani 2nd battle group 8th infantry had parachuted onto the roof tops of houses and businesses, intent of firing at Peruvians on the streets below. Their plan failed when Chiclayo’s roof dogs literally tore them to shreds before they knew what hit them.

Muñecostani cavalry units didn’t fare any better…most of them falling victim to collisions with combis and taxis before ultimately joining their comrades in a fiery death at the hands of Chiclayo’s outraged citizens.

Row after row of charging infantry Muñecos were mowed down where they stood. To the shock of Chiclayanos, the bodies of women Muñeco soldiers were found in direct violation of Muñecostan’s own laws which state that no women are permitted to serve in active combat areas.

Amidst cries of “Die!...Muñeco…Die!” the screams of burning Muñecos could be heard mingled among the constant explosions – their gasoline dowsed cardboard or cloth uniforms having gone up in flames.

In a desperate attempt to salvage victory the Muñecos offered their version of the Trojan horse…El elefante loco (The crazy elephant). Chiclayanos were not fooled and quickly made prisoners of the Muñeco soldiers hidden inside. The elephant was later filled with explosives and burned…as were the prisoners. Unfortunately atrocities occur in all wars.

As Peruvian officials were announcing victory to the world, Muñecostan president Cugo Hhàvez denied any invasion had taken place, instead claiming that thousands of innocent Muñeco tourists had been slaughtered and vowing revenge next New Year’s Eve.

Tom

Ps… Seriously now, the burning of muñecos on New Year’s Eve is a tradition I look forward to. It is impossible, at least for me to capture in words or photos the surreal transition that takes place in entire neighborhoods over a large part of this city at midnight. Cheering people gathered in the streets…the constant deafening roar of ground and aerial fireworks combined with eye-stinging lung-searing thick black smoke from hundreds of burning muñecos as far as the eye can see creates the impression that Armageddon has arrived. All of these activities are prohibited and illegal. There are no police to be seen at midnight.

Happy New Year everybody!

A 232.5 million year old mystery solved!

2010-12-26T13:22:00.003-05:00

Several weeks ago family members who own a farm near the city of Jaèn were plowing a recently cleared plot of land to plant yuccas. The plow unearthed this oddity shown in the center of the photo. Knowing that I collect and have shelves of unusual things I’ve found, they brought the piece to Chiclayo as a Christmas gift for me. Opinions during a family discussion about what the object might be ranged from an octopus tentacle to a man-made artifact to a part left behind by alien visitors. To me it looked like a fossil of a giant snail, so that’s how I started my Google search.

It didn’t take many tries to learn that what I had was an ammonite fossil. These fossils are very common and are found all over the planet. The internet is loaded with photos like this one. They come in a variety of colors and sizes, but all have a typical snail shaped shell mostly with ribbed segments, though they were related closer to octopuses and squids than their shelled relatives. Black ammonites are of the species Asteroceras Obtusi.

Ammonites first show up in the fossil record about 400 million years ago. Fossils have been found in Huancayo Peru dating back 350 million years, and in other parts of Peru to 150 million years. The species went extinct at the same time as the dinosaurs, about 65 million years ago.

So the newest and most senior member of my oddity collection is an ammonite fossil dating back 232.5 million years, give or take 167.5 million years. Almost makes me feel young again!

Tom

The Last Chocolatada…

2010-12-20T17:50:00.003-05:00

The last chocolatada for this Christmas season was a bit unusual. It was held in a private home in the district of La Victoria; one of Chiclayo’s poorer areas. This was the only Christmas party these kids will have and honestly, if you judged it with a ‘fun meter,’ it wasn’t much of a party. We were told the kids were not accustomed to gringos, which probably accounted for the look of apprehension on most of their faces. They weren’t a whole lot warmer even with Maribel. These poorer communities tend to be close-knit and don’t easily warm up to strangers. The house dog shared their uncertainty…growling at us continuously from under a table all the while we were there. Still…when we passed out the toys, paneton and chocolate milk there was a ‘thank-you’ from each child and a momentary look of excitement in their eyes.

They didn’t loosen up until they got outside, and even then many of them ran to their homes, apparently to show mom what they had received. I’ve been wondering about this situation since we returned to our apartment. I’m sure these kids play normally among themselves, but have they ever been to a party? They didn’t seem to know what to do or how to act. This location is only a 10 minute taxi ride from our apartment. I’m already thinking that next year we’ll return, and this time do it right. We’ll do it outside, and have a clown and games and loud music and we’ll do it for the whole neighborhood! And we won’t let the party end until every living soul has a semi-permanent smile on their face!...well, maybe not that damn dog.

We’re going to take off our Promesa Peru vests for a few days and relax. Joyce returns to the States in two days, and there are still things we want to show her. And I’d like to get back to Patapo to do some mountain climbing, and Maribel swears she can hear the pier at Puerto Eten promising lots of fish for our baited hooks.

We’ll be updating the Promesa Peru web page soon and hope you’ll find the time to check it out occasionally. In the meantime Happy Holidays to all of our readers!

Tom & Maribel (and Joyce & Brian)

Christmas means Chocolatada

2010-12-17T21:34:00.008-05:00

When we first decided to ask for donations to help us sponsor various activities in the Lambayeque Region, we had no idea what to expect. We know the world economies are not doing great and there aren’t a lot of people standing in line to give away their money, but we needed help so thought we’d ask. The short story is that you answered the call. Thanks to the generosity of Chris, Maria, Jim, The North Hills Country Club of Menomonee Falls, Karen, Rose, The Wednesday Women’s Golf League of Germantown, Pauline, Ray and David, we’re able to sponsor two chocolatadas and contribute to a third. What follows happened and will happen because of you.

The Promesa Peru team arrived at the Jose Carlos Mariategui school in the village of Collique Alto on the 15th after a grueling 1½ hour combi ride. Nearly all of the non-perishable food along with balls, jump ropes and other gifts had been transported to the school some days in advance. Fifty pounds of chicken had been purchased the previous day. All we brought with us were bags of candy and 200 empanadas.

This is something I wish those of you who contributed could experience. To have 50 or so little kids rush up to you smiling and yelling and wanting to hug and kiss you to thank you for giving them a party…well…it just feels good. And that wasn’t all. Inside the classrooms were more kids waiting their turn to march out to greet us; each carrying either a Peruvian or American flag. Several of our team wiped away tears and I admit to a lump in my throat.

The kids, teachers and parents had obviously put some work into this party. There were signs expressing friendship, and each class from kinder through secondary put on dance/song performances that were very entertaining and made their parents proud. The Promesa Peru people on site for the party are Betzy, Maribel, me, Joyce and Yesenia.

We were told that the kids had never seen a clown so we brought one with us. When the clown first appeared many of the younger kids were frightened, and some of the parents looked uneasy, but Jorge aka “Kokoroko the Clown” did an excellent job of entertaining and involving the kids, parents and teachers.

It’s customary to prepare food and beverages for a chocolatada in the school’s kitchen or at the town’s community center but Collique Alto has neither, so the food was prepared at parents homes and brought to the school where the students ate in their classrooms. Each kid had a plate heaping with chicken, potatoes, paneton and empanadas plus all the chocolate milk they could drink. Looking at some of their faces I had the feeling that they had never seen so much food on their plate at one time.

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For me personally the chocolatada I will enjoy most is one we didn’t sponsor; at least not directly and probably will not attend. The Jorge Chàvez Dartnel school will hold their chocolatada on the 21st. Our only contribution is a couple dozen balls for the school and bags of candy for the kids, which we dropped off today. The school doesn’t need any further help from us.

In September Promesa Peru supplied tools for the students to increase production and improve quality of their carved and painted gourd enterprise. The plan worked, and with the proceeds from their increased sales plus money from two bake sales the community is able to finance its own chocolatada. This is a great example of helping people to help themselves.

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And with the money we have left over we will sponsor another chocolatada this coming Monday; this one in a very poor district right here in Chiclayo. These kids live in an area where the schools, churches and communities simply don’t have the money for parties. With the help of some friends in the area we’ve identified a number of needy families and are presently working on a location for the party.

We hope you feel good about the help you’ve provided. You’ve got our thanks as well as the thanks of the kids, parents and teachers.

Tom

The Ole’ Boy Turned 70!

2010-12-13T09:58:00.004-05:00

When the clock struck 12:00:01am this last Sunday I reached 70 years of age. Now…lots of people live to that age and beyond these days, but still…70 is getting up there. I blew right by 50, 60 and 65 without even thinking about it – no big deal, but I wanted friends and family with me for this birthday so we held a celebration at the Beirut Restaurant in Chiclayo. I’ll let the photos summarize what for me was a very special and memorable occasion, though I do want to repeat some words spoken at the restaurant by my sister Joyce somewhere around 2:30am…”Maribel throws one hell of a party!”

Some last minute finishing touches

Me, Brian and Maribel

My sister Joyce flew in from Milwaukee.

We had a clown as part of the entertainment. His instructions were to help as many guests as possible make fools of themselves. He succeeded admirably.

I’m pretty sure my friend Lucho didn’t expect to be wearing a toilet plunger as a hat at the party.

I was not immune

Maribel planned several surprises for me this evening. One of them was these young Marinera dancers. I had seen the boy Carlos dance previously. Our guests appreciated them as much as I did.

So you think you can dance?

Another surprise was this jazz combo, who played during dinner. I like many types of music, but jazz has always been my favorite.

Perhaps the nicest gift I received was this banner given to me by a group of friends.

It was an evening I will never forget. My thanks to those friends and family members who were there to share it with me.

Tom

It’s Election Day Again...

2010-12-05T13:24:00.003-05:00

…which means Peruvians are voting for their favorite candidates, and I am doing without wine tonight because I forgot to buy it yesterday and it is illegal to sell it today. Anyway, I thought you might be interested in the voting process in Chiclayo. It’s quite similar to the process in the boonies of northern Wisconsin. In Lima electronic voting is just beginning to be put in place.

Voting takes place at various schools. The first step is to determine what group you are registered to vote in and what room the group’s officials are in. You do this by checking lists for your name outside of the classroom doors. The voting ‘officials’ have their names and photos posted above the registration lists. Just as voting is mandatory, so is serving as an official if you are selected. Yes, that’s Maribel 4th from the left. This group has 140 people registered in it.

Once inside you will be greeted by three officials. All three of them must witness every step of the process, except of course for your selection of candidates.

The first step is to hand your DNI (Peruvian national identification card) containing your personal information plus photo to an official, who will verify your identity against their registration list and the copy they have of your DNI as seen on the desk.

When your identity has been confirmed you’ll be handed a paper ballot and pen if you need one.

The ‘voting cabin.’ There were only two candidates on the ballot for Regional President so most of the voters I watched took only a few seconds to indicate their choice.

The ballot box is clear corrugated plastic sealed with security tape.

After depositing your ballot you need to sign the official’s copy of your DNI. But you’re not done yet.

The final step is to place your fingerprint next to your signature.

Lastly your DNI is returned to you along with a tissue to wipe the ink off your finger. The entire process averages less than three minutes.

Voting begins at 8:00am and finishes at 4:00pm. The woman and man on the right in this photo represent the two candidates. When I asked what specifically they were watching for the man responded, “We want honesty.” After the doors close the three officials will tabulate the result in the presence of the candidate’s representatives.

Maribel will be home somewhere around 7:00pm tonight after 11 hours at the school. “What’s for supper?” would not be a good question to ask her.

Tom

The Village of Collique Alto

2010-12-01T09:35:00.001-05:00

I read somewhere that one should not use superlatives lightly because they will have been all used up when you really need them. Looking back at some of the posts I’ve written about villages, I see I was too liberal with the use of words such as ‘remote’ and ‘desolate’ and ‘poverty stricken’ and ‘middle of nowhere.’ I should have saved those words for the village of Collique (‘ko-yee-kay’) Alto and the Jose Carlos Mariategui School.

The school has existed for 35 years and according to veteran teachers (there are six for the 117 primary, 20 secondary and 12 kinder students) the school has never been remodeled or upgraded. Morning classes are for primary students only. They go home for the day at noon, which is when the secondary students arrive. This schedule exists because the school cannot provide lunches, so the kids hopefully eat a noon meal at home. The schedule also allows the secondary students to work in the fields in the morning, and the younger kids to work the fields in the afternoon.

This is the only school we’ve been to where uniforms are not mandatory. David, the school’s director explained that parents can’t afford uniforms, so the school has compromised and asks only that clothing be clean. Even that has got to be a chore because we didn’t see any concrete or asphalt within miles of the village. Nothing but dirt and sand everywhere, and some of these kids are walking several miles to and from school.

We visited the school at the suggestion of Promesa Peru Chiclayo board member Betzy Calderon who has a connection to the area through family and has a friend teaching at the school. Betzy is a full time student at the University of Sipàn where she studies administration. During her spare time she is a volunteer at a medical clinic in Chiclayo. When word spread that the ‘doctora’ was at the school, several mothers with sick children sought out Betzy to ask for advice.

It was through her teacher friend that Betzy learned the Collique Alto Christmas party was recently cancelled because parents were unable to raise the money. We’ve heard of Christmas parties being scaled back for lack of funds but never before cancelled. In our discussion we learned the situation is not unusual. I don’t know why Collique Alto seems to have ‘slipped through the cracks’ in all areas of government support but there’s no question that it has. Perhaps David and his teachers haven’t pounded on agency doors enough to demand attention, as most village school directors are forced to do.

We don’t get involved in politics, at least not yet, but through Promesa Peru we do get involved to the best of our ability in helping communities. We’re going to help these kids to have a Christmas party. We sure could use some assistance. Please visit the Promesa Peru web site at: https://sites.google.com/site/promesaperuchiclayo/ to lend a hand.

Tom & Maribel

New life for a Glorious old Town

2010-11-19T18:39:00.003-05:00

Walking through the town during my first visit in 2005 it was difficult to imagine that Zaña at one time rivaled Lima in wealth and grandeur and was being considered as the capital of Peru. Of course that was some 400 years ago, before pirates repeatedly looted and ravaged the city in the late 1600s, and a flash flood in 1720 completely destroyed the city, leaving only the massive Saint Augustine church standing.

Five years ago Zaña was the stereotypical ‘sleepy little village.’ Located 30 miles southeast of Chiclayo, burro drawn carts, sheep and cows competed with what little motor vehicle traffic there was for room on the dirt streets. The only sounds to be heard were the voices of playing children and barking dogs, along with the oohs and aahs of the occasional bus load of tourists appreciating the grand scale of the church ruins.

These days there is a different sound to the city. Dozens of pieces of heavy construction equipment bearing the name plates of Caterpillar and John Deere are the dominant sound as they tear up the dirt roads in preparation for concrete and asphalt. We were told that of the $15,000,000 allocated to the District of Zaña, a significant portion of that money is being used to replace the city’s dirt streets. And we can testify that every single square foot of every single street is under construction. In great wisdom or folly, the city administration decided to do the entire town at once. The work began last June and is on schedule to be completed by the end of December.

We were also told that $1,700,000 has been allocated to remodel and add on to the existing school – already large compared to schools in similar sized communities. While I have a hard time believing the financial numbers given to us, there is no doubt that the school has been upgraded substantially.

And it’s not just the school and roads getting attention. The city hall has also been remodeled. As we toured the offices we noticed that all of the furniture including desks, chairs, and file cabinets are new…very different from the typically dilapidated furniture usually found in village municipal offices.

The renovation is being done to bring needed modern services to the city, and also to encourage new commerce and increase tourism. I’m not sure that new business and increased tourism will result from modern roads, but there is no doubt that traffic will increase and soon the horns and engines of mototaxis and taxis will dominate the senses. I guess that’s progress. For me…I’m going to miss the sound of the little bell on the lead goat’s neck and the sight of the young child directing the procession of animals down Main Street.

Tom

Medical care in Chiclayo Peru

2010-11-14T07:20:00.001-05:00

On Thursday October 14th I experienced what was initially diagnosed as a stroke. For informational purposes I thought readers might be interested in the process I’ve gone through since then together with the costs incurred, as well as an assessment of the quality of health care received. Healthcare was a subject important to me prior to deciding to move to Peru.

Thursday Oct. 14 – I experienced stroke-like symptoms in mid-morning. I delayed seeing a neurologist until early evening when it became apparent my thought process was not clearing up and my speech remained slurred. The doctor listened to an explanation of the symptoms and concluded that I had a stroke. He wrote orders for a CAT scan and EEG. His instructions were to come back when we had the results. His manner was casual with no sense of urgency.
Clinic: Salud Vida
Doctor: Neurologist Carlos Rocha
Consultation cost: $7.20

Tuesday Oct. 19 –We visited an otolaryngologist, wondering if perhaps what I had experienced was actually a problem caused by the severe head cold/allergy symptoms I’ve been having. After listening to an explanation of the ‘stroke’ incident he said the issues were “independent” and suggested I continue seeing a neurologist. He diagnosed me as having chronic rhinitis and prescribed loratadine tablets and mometasone furoate nasal spray.
Clinic: Clinica del Pacifico
Doctor: Otolaryngologist Jorge Melendez Tuesta
Consultation cost: $28.80
loratadine cost: $0.72 each
mometasone furoate cost: $43.20

Later that day I had a CAT scan and EEG done at a different clinic. I was impressed with the professionalism of the technician who did the scan and the neurologist who performed the EEG. Waiting time was only minutes and the procedures were done back to back.
Clinic: Hospital Metropolitano
Cat scan cost: $86
EEG cost: $54

Wednesday Oct 20 – We returned to the above clinic and decided to have the neurologist who performed the EEG do the analysis of the EEG and CAT scan rather than return to the original neurologist. The results of both procedures were completely normal. His conclusion is that I may or may not have had a stroke, but based on three separate experiences I’ve had he is convinced that something is restricting blood/oxygen flow to the brain. He wrote orders for comprehensive lab work involving blood and urine samples, and prescribed two medications; ginko biloba extract to open vessels in the brain and citicoline to repair any undetected damage.
Clinic: Hospital Metropolitano
Doctor: Neurologist Ricardo Mallorga Velasquez
Consultation cost: $28.80
citicoline cost: $3.60 per tablet
ginko biloba cost: $0.72 per tablet

Thursday Oct 21 – Visited a third clinic where blood and urine samples were taken.
Clinic: Integra Salud
Lab cost: $25.20

Saturday October 23 – Returned to the clinic Integra Salud for lab work results. Clinical analysis of complete blood count, complete urine, glucose, cholesterol and triglycerides showed all results to be within normal ranges. The cause of my episodes remains undetected. Recommendation is to continue with present medication, monitor blood pressure twice daily, and return in 30 days.

Observations:

Doctor availability is a problem. They may have an office at one or more clinics, but they ‘float’ to wherever the patients are. Their scheduled hours at each clinic are limited, not reliable, and vary from one day to the next. Also, the concept of a central coordinating doctor does not exist. For example, a neurologist, cardiologist and otolaryngologist treating the same patient do not seem interested in what treatment is being given by the other doctors or why, or what medications are being prescribed by each.

Family or patient health history forms do not exist to my knowledge, nor were any questions of that nature asked of me. Medical professionals are not accustomed to having the patient be a part of the diagnostic or treatment process. They listen only until they think they have a grasp of the symptoms and then reach for the prescription pad. You need to be assertive to make them listen.

The physical facilities and most of the medical equipment resemble vintage 1950s in the States, even in a clinic that was built just two years ago. The administrative systems and procedures are cumbersome and inefficient.

But the end result is what counts, and in my opinion the health care I received…from diagnosis to treatment has been of excellent quality. I would not hesitate to recommend the clinics and doctors I visited to anyone, provided you follow my advice and insist on being involved in the process. That includes not having a procedure done until you’ve researched it yourself and are confident it makes sense given your symptoms. The same for medications…I researched all of the drugs mentioned above before buying them. Learning that the procedures and drugs did make sense given my symptoms reinforced my confidence in the competency of the doctors.

One final comment based only on impressions. I was not involved in the emergency response system but have observed scattered pieces of it during my two plus years in Chiclayo. The system…from the initial 911 call through transport and reception at an emergency facility is slow and basic. For example, ambulance personnel I’ve seen in action more resemble furniture movers than trained medical technicians. In my opinion, if a situation is life threatening and minutes count you’re probably going to die. If time is not an issue, you have a good chance of receiving excellent medical care.

Tom

Point of Departure

2010-10-25T12:06:00.002-05:00

Airports, train stations and bus depots have always conjured up exotic images for me. Growing up in Milwaukee’s blue-collar south side was pretty much a stay at home experience. Travel was normally limited to family summer vacations to a destination not more than five or six hours away in the family car (the concept of a two-car family was still far in the future). Anytime anyone in the neighborhood ‘crossed the border’ into another state it became a topic of conversation over backyard fences for several weeks. We traveled vicariously. Maybe once per week we’d drive to the airport to watch planes take off and land. Many families did that. We’d bring popcorn or other snacks and Kool-Aid. It was tradition for us kids to shout “have a good trip” as the departing planes faded into the distance. One day the newspaper announced that for the first time a jet was going to land in Milwaukee. You couldn’t find a place to park within a half mile of the airport that day. I don’t remember if we saw the jet or not. Probably many people didn’t, but you had to say you did to have any status in the neighborhood.

The vast majority of Chiclayanos haven’t flown and never will. Older folks wouldn’t set foot into anything that leaves mother earth, and younger travelers who might take the risk can’t afford it. Which is why I sometimes find myself at Chiclayo’s Ormeño bus terminal located just off the Pan American highway. Sunday is normally the busiest night of the week, usually because Chiclayanos are returning to their lives/jobs in Lima or because they intend to buy or sell products there. The atmosphere outside is best described as semi-controlled bedlam. There is the blare of moto and taxi horns as vehicles and shouting people with luggage compete for space. Adding to the clamber is the shouts of vendors illegally offering their snacks and souvenirs. There are also men who are eager to help you with your luggage and packages as they unapologetically direct you to the bus line they represent. The big guy in the photo has a reputation for filling his company’s busses quickly.

Once inside the traveler is greeted with more bus line representatives, each of them looking for that inexperienced traveler while shouting, “lowest cost!” and “leaving immediately!” Show the slightest hesitancy and you will find yourself and your luggage being forcefully escorted to the ticket counter of Crisolito, Titanic, Valturs, Continental/Ormeño, Murga Serrano, ETTI, La Perla del Alto Mayo, Mori, Latino, or any of a half-dozen other companies. All it takes is a ‘look’ from a savvy traveler to get them to back off. Then all you have to contend with is the noise and crush of bodies.

Busses are generally scheduled to leave every hour on the hour but they won’t go until all available seating is sold, so there are usually busses leaving the terminal every 10 minutes or so. Rates range from a normal $7 - $11 to $18 - $36 on holidays. These busses make many scheduled and unscheduled stops en route to Lima, even stopping on a desolate section of the highway to pick up or drop off a solitary passenger. Total time from Chiclayo to Lima is normally 12 – 14 hours.

Watching people ‘seeing off’ friends and family is generally what you would expect. There is everything from playful slaps on the back accompanied with a smiling “Hasta pronto!” to tearful hugs and a whispered “Vaya con Dios.” I usually hark back to the days at the airport and think to myself, “Have a good trip.”

Tom

A letter to my parents

2010-10-15T19:01:00.002-05:00

Hi mom and dad,

I’ve got something to tell you and I might as well just say it straight out. I had a stroke yesterday. Actually it was the third one this year but I didn’t recognize the first two for what they were. This one there was no mistaking. I didn’t need hospitalization, and other than slightly slurred speech and a mind that isn’t quite clear yet I have no bad effects. I need to get a CT scan and EEG next week to see how much damage has been done. What happens after that I don’t know. I’m not worried about it and don’t you be either. I plan to be dancing and singing right here in Chiclayo Peru in December when I turn 70.

Yes, I know, you’re probably both still shaking you’re heads wondering how your son happens to be in Peru of all places, but like I’ve said before, it’s one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. I wish you could be here so I could show it to you. Dad, I know you’d love the parks and the beaches on the ocean. And mom, you’d get so caught up with the friendly people that you’d probably spend your entire day talking with strangers, and especially with the little kids.

I know both of you would love Maribel. She’s just special…there’s no other way to say it. I know what you’d say about her mom…”She’s the salt of the earth.” And she is. Just to see her smile, or hear her laugh, or watch her cooking in the kitchen makes my heart sing. She’s taught me so much about myself and about life and that there are different ways to look at this world and the people in it. She’s even taught me the meaning of tolerance, if you can believe that dad. I’m so proud of her. I don’t know why she loves me but she does, and that’s all that’s important.

I’ve been lucky. Unlike so many people I know of at my age, for me these have been the good times. Look at these blog photos, which don’t even come close to describing my life these past few years. Look at all the things I’ve seen and done; the people I’ve met and the opportunities I’ve had to give and receive. And if I’m permitted the time there is still so much to see and do. How many people can say the last five years of their lives have been the happiest? How many men can say they could not imagine having a better wife…or a greater life? I can, and I occasionally do literally shout it from a mountain top. I bet you’d laugh to see that!

Mom and dad, if this is it for me…if it’s getting close to the time for me to join you and my hunting buddies and so many others that have gone on let me tell you I’ll be doing it with no regrets. Maribel is strong and resourceful and I know she and Brian will be fine.
And I will have memories…so many sweet and wonderful memories.

Your son Tom

Edit: Sunday Oct 17

My thanks for the support. I actually feel a little foolish about having posted this entry. My mind was still foggy when I wrote it. I remember thinking that I wanted the readers to know what happened if there were no further entries. I probably put it in the context of a letter to my parents because they both died from strokes. I thought about deleting it but have decided to let it stand. It’s not the first embarrassing thing I’ve done and I hope it won’t be the last.

Chilean mine workers rescue

2010-10-13T09:45:00.004-05:00

Thirteen Chilean mine workers have been rescued as of this writing. Evo Morales is on site, modestly downplaying Bolivia’s role in the rescue (?) while warning Chileans that the United States team who reached the trapped miners are actually spies and agitators intent on stealing Chile’s gold and copper. Toy manufacturers are still puzzled as to how King Hugo Châvez is able to manipulate the Morales puppet over such long distances.

Peru’s president Alan Garcia reacted angrily to Chavez’s comments on Venezuela’s national television in which he said,…”If the trapped miners had been in Peru, the Peruvian government would charge each of them 100 soles to ‘ride in the rescue capsule.’" He further commented…”it would have been a short-lived business because Peruvians would steal the rescue equipment.” Garcia did not deny the charges but said that Châvez “could have put a more positive spin on it.”

In a related matter, all but three representatives of the world’s nations have dutifully recited United Nations speech #812S which reads:

”Our thoughts and prayers go out to the (insert heart-rending condition here) and their families.”

The Chilean government has threatened reprisals against the three offending nations for breach of protocol.

Brought to you by chiclayogringo…your source for cynical news

Election Day Hijinks

2010-10-02T12:54:00.007-05:00

October 3rd is Election Day all across Peru for the offices of mayor and regional president. It will be a busy day because voting in Peru is mandatory. Not voting means a substantial fine when attempting a transaction at a bank or other governmental office. The ‘system’ knows who did not vote, and will flag the individual’s record. There are other interesting sidelights.

Would you buy a used car from this man? This is Roberto ‘Beto’ Torres, Chiclayo’s present and probably future mayor. The photo was taken as he was denying allegations of spending public money on his campaign commercials. Surely people understand that those videos were public service announcements about public works happening in Chiclayo. The fact that his reelection banners just happened to appear in them was purely coincidental.

His banners are everywhere, including at civic improvement sites…and recently there are lots of civic improvement sites. Moto and taxi drivers know how to navigate what passes for roads in Chiclayo without causing too much discomfort to their passengers. In the last 30 days things have gotten much easier for them. Almost overnight city crews were everywhere tearing up and replacing roads and sidewalks; always in the shadow of a Beto Torres banner proclaiming his tireless efforts to improve Chiclayo, all the while doing it with ‘clean hands’. People aren’t fooled. They know this is all about getting reelected. In 4 years come election time there will be another rash of civic improvements. It’s all part of the game.

People also know that television stations will be airing interviews of indignant passengers at bus stations all across Peru complaining about price gouging. See…you have to vote in the city listed on your National Identification Card, which means lots of Peruvians who haven’t bothered to change their address legally need to return to their home cities. The bus lines know this, so tickets normally costing 30 soles now sell for 90. That’s what happened during the last election, is happening now and will happen again in 4 years when television stations will again be airing interviews of indignant passengers at bus stations.

What’s also part of the election game is that the sale of alcohol is prohibited for 72 hours prior to election. Go ahead…try to get a Pisco sour or a glass of beer at a restaurant or bar. Ain’t gonna happen. And your favorite store will have their liquor section closed off. Just for the hell of it during the last election I tried to talk the bartender at the Gran Hotel’s Fantasy Club lounge into serving me a drink. He politely declined. It was the same at our local neighborhood store when I asked for a bottle of wine. The fines and potential loss of license are too severe to risk it. Al Capone, Chicago’s prohibition era bootlegger would have loved this situation.

So…if you like a glass of wine in the evening while watching “public service announcements” and coverage of irate bus passengers as I do, and you’ve forgotten to stock up as I did, there’s always Inca Cola. Cheers!

Tom

The school at Monte Hermoso – Part II

2010-09-27T15:16:00.001-05:00

I realize this is the third post on Monte Hermoso and the second about the school, but Thursday, September 23rd was a special day for a couple of reasons. First, we were able to take part in Jorge Châvez Dartnel’s 25th anniversary celebration. I think there were about 300 kids from Monte Hermoso and the surrounding schools plus some 100 parents…mostly moms.

Dancing is usually a part of any celebration. A group of primary students in colorful costume started the program by dancing the Saya. Speeches from several local officials took up the next half-hour, following which a pair of secondary students danced the marinara. Peruvians revere the marinara with a feeling that seems to go beyond the dance itself. I don’t share that feeling, but I will say that watching 12 year old Carlos dance was inspirational. This kid has been dancing for 6 years and is just plain good for any age. I hope he keeps at it.

Mothers were busy cooking lunch to feed the huge crowd while fathers did the serving. First up was ceviche (I surreptitiously handed my plate to one of the kids who quickly wolfed it down) followed by a heaping plate of goat, beans and rice known as ‘cabrito’. It’s one of my favorite meals. In these remote village settings it’s even more delicious. Somehow food tastes better when it’s been cooked in these conditions and warmly given by people who don’t have that much to give, if that makes sense.

Another reason it was a special day is because we had the pleasure and privilege of delivering shelves, tools and materials needed to ramp up the student’s carved and painted gourd manufacturing enterprise. It’s interesting how that came about.

Last May while visiting our friends Ray and Rose Harris in California they mentioned wanting to help needy Peruvian families, schools, and clinics in some organized fashion. We had several discussions, including Maribel and I agreeing to be members of whatever organization might take shape, but life has other demands and upon our return to Peru the subject was put on the back burner by them and all but forgotten by me. Shortly after posting the initial story about the school I got a phone call from Ray saying the project looked interesting and that maybe it was time to forge ahead with the charitable organization we’d talked about. That sounded like a good idea, so Maribel and I spoke with some folks in Chiclayo while Ray and Rose contacted friends in the States and in a short time we had the money for the project, and a new charitable organization…Promesa Peru was born. Heartfelt thanks from us, the kids, the school's director Martin and the teachers to Ray, Rose, Joyce and the others who made this project happen.

If you’d like to learn more about Promesa Peru or help us with upcoming activities, visit the following link...

http://www.promesaperu.org/index.html

...or send an email to me kaetan1@gmail.com

We hope to hear from you.

Tom & Maribel

Getting plastered in Morrope

2010-09-19T10:35:00.000-05:00

Nearly every home and commercial building constructed in the Lambayeque Region has its interior and exterior walls finished with plaster from the factories in or near Morrope. We were recently able to see the manufacturing process from start to finish. Not surprisingly there is almost no technology or sophisticated equipment involved, nor is it needed.

It all begins with underground deposits of gypsum rock. To my knowledge there is only one mine in the region, located 11 miles north of Morrope. We were not able to go to the mine but it was described in detail to us. The gypsum deposits are shallow. Men using shovels remove the surface dirt, and using iron spud bars break the exposed rock into manageable chunks which are hand-loaded onto trucks. Each truck has a capacity of 20 tons. At the factory the trucks are unloaded by hand. It takes two men one hour to unload a truck.

What happens next is determined by the intended use of the gypsum…there are two products that can result from the mineral: plaster or a soil conditioner used for agricultural purposes. The factories at Morrope produce both.

Making soil conditioner is the easiest and fastest of the two. Strong arms and sledge hammers simply make small rocks out of large ones. It takes a six man crew three hours to reduce one truckload. The small rocks are placed in buckets and then dumped into a surprisingly tiny crusher that grinds them into fine powder. Bags placed under the crusher’s downspout are filled and then sealed individually with a small hand tool.

Rocks destined for plaster go through an additional step. The rocks are placed into piles of predetermined size and then completely covered with large amounts of wood. The wood is then set on fire and rice husks are placed on top to force the wood to ‘char’ instead of burning with an open flame. We were told that the wood “comes from the desert” and that rice husks are a worthless by-product of rice processing and are free for the taking. There were enormous amounts of each piled around the property.

After two days only the blackened rocks remain. They’ve lost 75% of their water and through a chemical change are now no longer gypsum but instead are ‘plaster of Paris.’ The finishing steps are the same as for the soil conditioner…big rocks to little rocks to powder to bag.

The factories operate Monday through Saturday 6:00am to 1:00pm and produce an impressive 30 tons of product per day. Plaster is sold in 15lb bags for $0.29 and 26lb bags for $0.46. The soil conditioner is packaged in 110lb bags and costs $2.15. The factories will sell individual bags to the public but most of their output is destined for building contractors and retailers.

One of several crews at the factory. It’s not hard to figure out who the boss is. As usual, people were willing and eager to talk about their jobs and answer any questions. It was an enjoyable and informative experience.

Tom

Would you like to take a walk in Monte Hermoso?

2010-09-14T20:34:00.003-05:00

There really isn’t much to see and it won’t take more than 5 or 6 minutes to walk from one end of the town to the other, but I’d like to show you what there is of it. I call it a town, but it’s really more of a mini-village. The Spanish word for it is ‘caserio’ which means, well…I’m not sure what it means.

We’ll start at the school. You’ve already seen a photo of it in a previous post but this is a slightly different angle. The school sits in the middle of the town. This is Main Street running off ahead into nowhere. The scenery isn’t any different behind us. Notice that there are no adults to be seen in any of these photos. The people are inside their houses watching us. That’s always the case in these remote villages. I’m not sure why. And there is always quiet...silencio. I mean nothing but bird sounds and the occasional bray of a burro. You see that green building under the tree next to the school? We’ll go there next.

This is Monte Hermoso’s medical clinic. The plaque on the wall next to the door reads – “The Government of the United States donated this medical post to the Government of Peru as a symbol of friendship.” If I understand it correctly the building was actually erected by members of the United States and Peruvian armed forces, which would account for the sloped roof. Peruvians living on the coast build flat roofs. The clinic was commemorated on September 15th 2006.

We’ve walked about 100 feet from the clinic to an intersection and typical street. I don’t know what your reaction is to this view. I guess it depends on where you are and how much experience you’ve had with developing countries. I’ve grown accustomed to this scene. It is everywhere up and down the coast of Peru. Even in the larger cities including Lima you don’t need to get very from the city center before you find yourself in these conditions. Do you see that pig in the center-left of the photo? Let’s follow it around the corner of the house on the left.

The pig got a little nervous as we approached and joined its comrades…a burro, another pig (lying down), a dark colored cow in the background, and whatever that thing is with the horns and rope wrapped around its face. It looks African to me. Maybe you know what it is. When I first saw the significant numbers of cows and pigs in the area I questioned whether these people were really poor. After a little research I learned that the value of a scrawny cow is less than $250 and a pig much, much less.

Now we’re at the very next yard. See what I mean about ‘scrawny’? The pigs look more like starving dogs than the porkers I’m accustomed to in the States. The pig in the foreground is a nursing mother. Her piglets are lying to her right.

This is the park. It’s only ½ block from the pigs we just left. The central theme is of the different types of birds that inhabit the area. The park doesn’t have the manicured look of the bigger city parks, but for a little desert village it’s not bad. And you know what’s remarkable about this park? No graffiti. Go back and look at the photos of the school and medical clinic. No graffiti. I have never been in a town where walls and park benches and statues were not plastered with scrawling. In fact in most towns I’ve been in the bird statues would have been stolen long ago for resale. Not here. The school director told us there is no crime or delinquency in Monte Hermoso, though he did add that some of the men like to drink. To which I replied…and that’s bad because…?

Did you notice these little urchins following us during the tour? I thought not. Don’t worry, they won’t beg or bother us. There probably haven’t been any gringos here since the clinic was built in 2006 so they’re just curious. If you want to give them a piece of candy or a sol (coin) they’ll gladly accept it. I usually do.

I could see myself living in Monte Hermoso. Yeah…there’s lots of desert and not much to do but there’s also lots of green cultivated fields. And there are trees and birds and animals. And quiet…don’t forget the quiet.

Tom

The school at Monte Hermoso

2010-09-08T16:15:00.005-05:00

A 45 minute combi ride from Chiclayo gets you to Morrope. From Morrope to a nameless intersection in the desert wilderness is a 30 minute back breaking, head banging combi ride over a wagon trail ‘road’. At said wilderness intersection you wait for a moto to take you the remaining 2 miles to Monte Hermoso, and when you finally arrive you ask yourself…”Why?”

Main Street in Monte Hermoso. The town is pretty much like hundreds of other small desert settlements…adobe brick houses in varying states of decay; the people scratching out a living through subsistence farming. Yard occupants are mostly scrawny cows, pigs, goats and other livestock. It’s a flat country with no hint of mountains anywhere on the horizon – an unusual condition in the Lambayeque Region. The area is subject to flooding during the ‘rainy’ season, with the 1998 El Niño flood causing extensive damage.

The school…Jorge Châvez Dartnel sits like an island on the main street. It is larger and definitely better maintained then I expected. Upon entering there is a vibrancy… a something is happening feeling in contrast to the quiet of the surrounding town. It’s almost lunch time and some kids are outside playing while others are organizing classroom material; cooking lunch, and making liquid soap to be placed in empty pop bottles and distributed where ever it makes sense to wash hands. Signs mounted everywhere state in one form or another, “Poor does not mean dirty.”

Several kids were tending the gourd gardens located all over the school yard. These gardens are the source of the raw material for their handicraft project. It takes an average of 10 months from seed planting until a ripe gourd of sufficient size is available. To become familiar with the production process is the reason we were there.

Last March some of the high school students under the direction of teachers began making artifacts from gourds. The meager tools and material were supplied by parents. The artifacts sold surprisingly well at various handicraft fairs throughout the region. This room is dedicated to artifact manufacturing.

This boy is proud of his creations. The designs come from purchased stencils but also from some of the more creative students and teachers. The common theme is their Moche heritage. During the Moche culture people from the Morrope area believed in an iguana god, so a representation of an iguana is featured on many of the finished products.

Shared oven to cook lunches and heat the painted gourds. Paint tends to smudge on the hard surface of the gourds if not heated. Besides competing for time with the cooking crew, the present oven doesn’t give them any control over the temperature or allow for even heat distribution.

A teacher and the school director Martin Rolando Angeles displaying several different products. It is my understanding these men are the driving force behind the project. Encouraged by early success, they would like to expand the concept to provide for increased production and better quality. To do that they need $450 to construct an oven, purchase hand tools and replenish materials such as lacquer, paint and paint thinner. If successful their plan is to use the money from sales to help parents purchase school supplies, keeping only enough to make the operation self-sustaining. Martin joked (perhaps) about someday exporting to the United States. Who knows? We think their project is worthwhile. We like to see people trying to help themselves rather than simply asking for charity.

On September 23rd Jorge Châvez Dartnel celebrates its 25th anniversary. We plan on being there.

Tom

Sorry…the doctor is sick

2010-09-06T11:43:00.001-05:00

That’s what 18 patients scheduled for endoscopies were told this morning at Chiclayo’s hospital Naylamp. They hadn’t eaten for the required 24 hours previously and several of them had traveled overnight to Chiclayo from remote villages to be at the hospital at 6:30am. An older woman from Guadalupe tried to plead her case but was told along with everyone else to make another appointment for sometime after October 4th.

Even if the doctor was not sick this morning, those people who arrived at 6:30am stand a good chance of not being seen until late in the afternoon. I have not yet discovered what mystical process is used to determine whose turn is next, but it’s sure not scheduled appointment time. What happens is when a patient is seen leaving the consultation office everyone hurriedly stands and crowds toward the door, hoping whoever is in charge will point at them.

In other posts I think I commented that the lack of organization, systems and procedures is what many expatriates living in Peru complain about most loudly. The above is not an isolated incident - it is an example of the inefficiencies rampant in all processes. When I set out in the morning to pay a phone, water or electric bill, claim a package at the post office, pick up our laundry, check out a book at the library or transact any other business government or private I fully expect what Maribel and I have come to call the ‘whoops.’ The system will be down or will not accept the information; the forms or regulations have recently changed, a rubber stamp or stamp pad is lost, or it’s time to close business for the day no matter how many people have been admitted inside and are standing in line. If a transaction is successfully concluded in one stop and in less than 2 hours or so I actually feel a sense of victory, but only after I have safely exited the building.

Peruvians don’t like the lack of organization and occasionally show their frustration, but I don’t think they or the people in charge realize there are better ways. Or perhaps they do…maybe it’s just a lack of money that prevents better systems and procedures. Maribel has a tougher time putting up with the ‘whoops’ than I do. She knows there are better ways. Her two years in the States spoiled her.

Anyway…Maribel’s father is sitting at the kitchen table wolfing down a big breakfast as I type this. He was one of the 18 at the hospital. We’ll try again in October.

Tom

Houston…we have CHILI!!

2010-09-03T14:47:00.003-05:00

One night last week I went to bed thinking about a big bowl of chili. I mean I wasn’t just thinking about it – I could almost taste and smell it! Over the last few days the thought of chili became an obsession. I like Peruvian food generally (except for ceviche) and appreciate Maribel’s cooking but there are times when I would like a change. I imagine myself perusing the menu at Texas Roadhouse or Red Lobster or Dave’s Famous Chili and nearly start salivating. Today was the day to do something about it.

Back in the States I used to make some damn fine chili if I say so myself, so decided to see how close I could come in Chiclayo. The only ingredient I couldn’t find was canned kidney beans. I thought maybe a can of pork n’ beans might work if I added them late in the cooking process so they wouldn’t get mushy. To compensate for the extra tomato paste I added one less can of pure paste than I normally would.

Now I suppose you want to know my recipe. It’s simple…cook all this stuff together in a pot. Well, ya gotta brown the meat first of course and don’t let it form chunks. I add the onions to the meat immediately and the mushrooms after a few minutes. Next comes the tomato paste and then the condiments. Look out for that Sazonador…the stuffs got a bite to it! Next time I’ll use one tablespoon instead of two. Besides the stuff shown I added ½ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper. Last I added the pork n’ beans and let the whole shebang simmer for about ten minutes. I like to add elbow macaroni to individual servings, which of course is cooked separately.

And here you are…a pot of chili that looks and tastes very close to what I had been salivating about. A couple of times while we were eating lunch I got a little giddy and was close to shouting ‘praise de Lord!’ but I think I can be excused for that. No more dreams or obsessing over chili…I can have it any time I want, including dinner tonight.

Tom

Sometimes fate steps in

2010-09-01T15:08:00.008-05:00

I truly believe that sometimes fate decides to play a hand when it feels the inclination. Take today for instance in the town of Morrope. We where there because I wanted to learn about the local plaster industry and perhaps get photos and information for a blog entry. We were having a hard time getting directions on where to go and how to get there. Even the officers at the police station couldn’t provide information. We had about decided to give it up and return to Chiclayo when, as we were leaving the police station a man approached Maribel and asked if he could talk to her about a project he was working on. We both immediately thought ‘scam’, but it turns out that Martin Rolando Angeles is the director of the school in Monte Hermoso…a dirt poor little village some thirty minutes from Morrope and that the Morrope municipal officials had just turned down a school project he wanted to implement, not because they didn’t like it, but because they don’t have the money. He was discouraged, tired of knocking on doors, and mistaking the emblems on our travel vests as an indication that we represented some agency, unapologetically began to pitch his project to Maribel right there on the street.

Within minutes the two of them said almost simultaneously…, “Did you study at Karl Weiss?” It turns out they were classmates and graduated in 1980 (see the previous post entry). After a minute of chit-chat Martin returned to his project. His presentation was thorough and included facts, figures and photos for support. The bottom line is that he needs 1250 soles ($450) for hand tools and several other items to be used by the kids to make artifacts for sale. I like his project and respect his tenacity. We’ve been looking for a place to help out and if our visit to his school next week goes well we told him we’ll consider helping him.

We were about to say goodbye when he asked why we were in Morrope – a town no tourists ever visit. Informed about our plan to learn about plaster, he said he knew an owner of a manufacturing site and offered to take us there. We went – were welcomed and got all the information and photos I need for the next blog entry.

Nobody’s going to tell me that fate wasn’t hanging around in Morrope today, and having nothing better to do at that moment decided to put a win-win situation together.

By the way, today marks the first anniversary of ‘My Slice of Peru’. Here we are one year and 84 posts later. That sure went fast!

Tom & Maribel

Happy Anniversary Karl Weiss!

2010-08-30T16:35:00.005-05:00

Karl Weiss is a national primary and secondary school in Chiclayo. It is a tradition of the school to celebrate each annual anniversary with a week of activities. This year marks the 49th year of existence, and is also the 30th anniversary of Maribel’s 1980 graduating class.

There was an open house Saturday for alumni and any other interested visitors. The schedule of events indicated teachers would be on site at 9:00am to conduct mock classes with former students. We arrived at 9:30 to find freshly painted buildings but nobody there except a very angry school director who was fuming to no one in particular about the lack of organization. A student who happened to walk past at that moment was collared by the director and made to clean a restroom. Life is not always fair.

Maribel had no problem locating her former classroom and remembered exactly where she sat. Eventually one of her classmates showed up, but when we left two hours later there was no indication that anything was going to take place on this day, though it was still enjoyable to watch Maribel revisiting fond memories.

The parade on Sunday was a completely different story. It is a huge event. A ten square block area in the heart of downtown was closed off to accommodate all of the parade participants, which included at least 20 other schools who were invited to take part. Most parades involve military-style marching. There is competition involved, with prizes awarded for the best groups.

In the reviewing stand is Mayor Roberto ‘Beto’ Torres, the school director and teachers. The three young ladies hold the titles of Miss Karl Weiss, Miss Sports, and Miss Sympathy. The military officers seated below the stand are serving as judges for the marching competition. These kids work hard on their routines. The ‘goose step’ is the basic chorography.

Chiclayo’s mayor is a Weiss graduate. Mayoral elections are held next month, and participation allowed him to show his school spirit and do a lot of hand shaking. I think he’s a shoo-in but what do I know? After I took this photo a voice was heard asking.., “Who is the gringo taking photos?” Another voice responded with – “I think he’s the German Consulate.”

The proudly marching members of the class of 1980. I was impressed with the deep feelings the alumni showed for each other and for their school. At the close of the parade all of the classes got together for photos, shouted school cheers and exchanged phone numbers. The streets and adjoining restaurants were packed with exuberant revelers long after the parade had ended.

Not surprisingly the class of 1980 had lost track of each other, even though half of them still live in Chiclayo. They took the opportunity to catch up and talk about old times over ceviche and beer at a popular restaurant nearby. They are an interesting group of people and we’re looking forward to seeing them again for lunch tomorrow, which marks the end of this year’s celebration.

Tom & Maribel

Visit to a Cemetery

2010-08-26T22:50:00.000-05:00

Even as a kid cemeteries held an attraction for me. Sometimes when none of my buddies were around I’d get on my bike and spend an hour or so slowly riding through a nearby cemetery. The large expanses of manicured green grass, bouquets of multicolored flowers placed at grave markers, plus the trees and shrubs combined to create a place that was to me more beautiful than many parks. I never understood why people acted so solemn and reserved in cemeteries. Why not spread a blanket next to the graves of Uncle Tony and Aunt Martha and have a picnic? They liked picnics when they were living so why not include them now? Years later my fascination for cemeteries remained and was enhanced by an interest in genealogy. In searching for my ancestors I’d inevitably find myself in the older sections…the places where the ancient white stone markers are barely legible and in some cases have fallen over. Often I’d walk between the rows, stopping to look at a particular marker that for some reason caught my interest; wondering…”Who were you? What was your story? Did any of your dreams come true? Does anyone know you’re here, or that you even existed?” Decades later in a different country I’m still doing that same thing.

Some of the larger cities in Peru have newer cemeteries that are somewhat comparable to those described above with grass, trees and shrubs, but the vast majority of cemeteries in Peru are dramatically different. The city of Pimentel has a cemetery that is representative of those throughout the country. There are some that are better maintained while others - the vast majority, show little attempt at maintenance. Also common to many cemeteries are entrances that seem to offer something inside other then the surrounding desert, but they don't deliver on their promise.

Missing are the large expanses of green grass. In their place is the ubiquitous brown dirt and sand, except where here and there a wealthier family has placed a small patch of grass. The Pimentel cemetery has three distinct sections. This photo is of the ‘high end’ section immediately inside the entrance way. The fresh flowers indicate regular visitation and that the graves are probably relatively new.

This is one of the more grandiose monuments. There is room to accommodate twenty members of the Huhmanchumo Zuñe family, only one of whom has arrived thus far. Separate and to the right are newly constructed mausoleums built by the municipality.

The second section is more communal than the first. Instead of individual graves there are rows of older mausoleums. It appears that less than half of the vaults are being visited. I noticed that most of the death dates in this section were in the 1950s.

The third section is what I refer to as the ‘land of the forgotten.’ These were poor people. I suspect that even if their graves are being visited, there is no money for flowers or other remembrances. This is what the majority of cemeteries in smaller towns and villages look like.

As I wandered through the barren landscape in the poor area I stopped at this gravesite. I don’t know why this particular one; there were hundreds more like it. Still, I found myself wondering…“Who were you? What was your story? Did any of your dreams..."

Tom

Some unsolicited advice for men

2010-08-20T14:52:00.000-05:00

This may seem like an unusual post…hell, it is an unusual post, but it’s something that’s been on my mind for awhile. Put it in the ‘for what it’s worth’ category.

During my time in Peru I’ve seen some human misery stories that could have and should have been avoided. In my opinion they were caused by immaturity, haste and illusory expectations.

I have been in Chiclayo for over two years and absolutely love it. For reasons that don’t need to be gone into now, the lifestyle that has evolved for me with my wife Maribel in Peru fits my temperament and personality like a glove. There are others who share a similar viewpoint. And then there are those who will tell you they can’t wait to leave this desolate, god-forsaken hell hole. Which is the real Peru? That answer depends on what you bring with you and what you expect. Peru is Peru with apologies to no one. We are all free to see it and make of it what we will, and then to praise or condemn it if we choose to. And we’re also free to use our heads to do a bit of thinking before packing our bags and buying a ticket to Lima.

Honestly, some of the characters who show up here are an embarrassment to me. One was recently banned from a coffee shop because of his annoying mannerisms. I don’t know if these guys were loose cannons back home, or if there’s something about Peru that causes them to act as they do, but I do know they act and look like fish out of water; completely unprepared for the realities of this part of the planet. If you’re a misfit and/or loser back home, chances are you’ll be a misfit and/or loser here too. Peru has no cure for you. Peru is not the wild, anything goes frontier outpost you may imagine it to be, though there is still enough of a taste of life in the raw to suit me. And it’s not fantasy land, where the natives strew flowers in your path and fall to their knees to pay homage to the gringo who has chosen to grace their shores. In fact, if you decide to come here without doing your homework first, you’re setting yourself up for failure, and Peru is likely to chew you up and spit you out before you know what happened.

And then of course there is the subject of male seeking female.

If you’re one of those guys looking for a hot Latina chica trophy, my advice is to stay home and grow up. There are still some naive women here who believe that because a guy is a gringo he is automatically educated, intelligent, honest and has a sincere heart, but they wise up quickly when confronted with a phony. They’re not stupid. And if you’re expecting a sex toy servant, you are in for one grande surprise. Respect and kindness are high on their list of desirable qualities in a man, and if they’re not genuinely present, well…neither will you be for very long. Of the gringo/Peruvian relationships that I am personally familiar with in Peru, slightly over 50% have failed or are presently in trouble. If I’m not mistaken, that is about the same percentage existing in the States, which proves the following – men and women are the same the world over. Building and maintaining a good relationship requires compatibility, honesty, respect, compromise, constant communication and lots of hard work. It’s no different in Peru or with Peruvian women except it requires even more work because of the cultural differences.

Guys…if you’re considering a move to Peru or a possible relationship with a Peruvian, you’ve got to understand that Peru is not Shangri-La, nor are the women oversexed Inca princesses waiting to serve your every whim. Save yourself some money and misery…take a long, hard, critical look at Peru, the woman you may be interested in, and most importantly yourself before entering into a situation that may prove difficult to get out of.

This concludes our advice segment. We will now return you to your normal programming.

Tom

Preparing for an earthquake

2010-08-18T14:36:00.003-05:00

For the first time in Peru’s history a national disaster earthquake drill was held today all across the country. And for good reason…Peru has a long history of destructive quakes. The last major quake – 8.0 on the moment magnitude scale occurred on August 15, 2007 south of Lima. So far this year through July Peru has averaged 13 detectable quakes per month, and August has already seen 11 tremors.

Minor quakes are taken in stride by Peruvians and anyone else who has been here for some time, but it was a new experience for me when I experienced my first one two nights ago, after having lived here over two years. I was seated at the computer when I felt the chair I was sitting in begin to shake. I thought Maribel had snuck up on me and was joking around until I noticed the glass of Coke on the desk was moving. About the same time I realized what was happening, it stopped. It was a minor quake, centered 150 miles north of us. My impression was that of sitting in a gently rocking boat rather than the violent shaking I’d expected. Maribel had once told me that dogs would bark shortly before and during a quake; something I dismissed as folklore. It turns out she knew what she was talking about! During that quake it sounded like every dog in the world was barking outside our apartment.

Chiclayanos took this disaster drill seriously. At 10:00am when sirens began sounding the entire commercial district came to a standstill. People left the buildings, commercial and private to gather in the center of the streets or other designated ‘safe areas.’ Traffic came to a halt…the cars simply stopping wherever they were when the sirens started.

The only people who maintained their posts were the police and private security personnel. I had expected to see an increase in security, especially at places like this bank but that didn’t seem to be the case.

Schools also participated in the drill. These students from Jorge Basadre assembled in the principal park along with many other people from adjacent businesses and government offices.

Injury and rescue simulations were part of the drill. Here a ‘victim’ has been treated and is being taken to a local hospital. At left a member of the police investigations unit can be seen filming the activity…perhaps for a later critique. As I took this photo the thought of CSI – Chiclayo crossed my mind.

When the ‘all clear’ sounded people returned to their normal activity. These Ripley employees actually participated in a roll call with the store’s security personnel before returning to the store, which makes me think they may have a very thorough disaster plan of their own.

Maribel, Brian and I have a plan for what we will do in the event of a major earthquake, which includes having all of our important documents and money in a small bag that any of us can quickly reach. We think we have a good plan…I just hope we never have to use it.

Tom

Acacia trees and a Sunday afternoon

2010-08-16T17:30:00.000-05:00

It was one of those Sunday afternoons. Earlier we had talked a bit over cups of coffee, tortured ourselves on our elliptical killer machine, had done some grocery shopping, and were now bored out of our skulls.

A stone’s throw from our apartment there is a small park with two acacia trees. I’ve often looked at the fallen seed pods as we walked past but never bothered to pick one up and examine it. What better day than today? It was sunny with no wind…a perfect park day.

The first thing I noticed was the variation in the length of the pods. Those I saw ranged from 4 to 14 inches. The second thing I noticed was how hard they are. You can bang them against concrete with barely a scratch – the seeds inside rattling as if they enjoyed the treatment.

Trying to open them is a humbling experience. Maribel had brought along a small screwdriver and attempted to use it with a rock to open the pods. As I watched her apply this high-tech method I had thoughts of Moche villagers doing this same thing on this same spot 2000 years ago, though with probably more success than we were having.

I was confident my trusty, constant companion knife would make short work of these pods. I was wrong. The material is as tough as the strongest wood, and the two halves require an unbelievable amount of force to separate them.

Once open there is a sort of beauty to them. They have the appearance and feel of a coarse grained wood. The notches for the seeds look as if they’ve been hand carved. Maribel is not aware of any use for the pods, but I’d be surprised if, where the trees grow in large numbers they aren’t being put to some use. Peruvians are resourceful and can usually find some use for anything.

This is the result of an hour’s worth of enjoyable labor. Now what to do with them?

We decided to do what any Moche villager would have done…we combined acacia seeds with seeds from the huayruro plant native to the Amazon jungle and strung them on a piece of natural fiber from the monofilament fishing line tree common to the Lambayeque Region and made a necklace.

And that’s what we did on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

Tom & Maribel

Piura…who are you?

2010-08-14T09:00:00.000-05:00

From the largest cities to the smallest villages there is always at least one signature ‘something’ that establishes a town’s identity/character in my memory. After several visits I still haven’t found Piura’s identity. It’s got a nice enough principal park, with probably the most butt-friendly benches I’ve sat on. Yes…I pay attention to that sort of thing. The pace is noticeably slower and more relaxed including the taxi drivers who, contrary to Chiclayo drivers seem not interested in terrorizing pedestrians. But there are still too many people and cars competing for limited space. It is only in the very small towns and villages that the ratio of people to space becomes acceptable, at least for me.

I’m not saying there is nothing of interest or worth seeing. In my experience Piura’s Tourist Information Office is exceptional. A uniformed staff member escorted us to a desk where we sat in comfortable chairs as she dispensed maps, brochures and information in an obviously well scripted presentation, and upon completion was adept at answering questions and offering advice in both Spanish and English. It’s a very good thing we had those maps.

Maybe that’s the problem with Piura – everything blends into everything else. The Admiral Grau Museum and Mansion blends into the adjoining buildings with only the lettering to identify it. The Vicûs Museum featuring displays of art, gold and history is so invisible to passersby that it appears to have been intentionally designed to keep its identity secret. We walked past it twice, thinking it was one apartment building among others. The Ignacio Merino Central Bank’s Gallery is equally invisible. If it had not been for the maps given to us at the tourist office, I don’t think we would have found any of the attractions, which would have been a shame because though small, they are well worth seeing. The modest Plaza del Sol shopping mall anchored by Saga Falabella sits inside a block of office and retail buildings. Here again there is nothing to call attention to it. We discovered it accidently while eating at a restaurant across the street. Incidentally, four out of seven stalls in the mall’s food court are unoccupied…usually an indication that a mall is in decline.

Anyway, back to the Grau Museum. Exploring the house and its exhibits would be interesting enough, but we had the added attraction of Maribel’s connection to the family. An inner courtyard contains a larger than life statue of Grau, and Maribel took the opportunity to commune with her famous ancestor.

If there is a uniqueness about Piura it is probably the three bridges spanning the Piura River. It is my understanding that the Sânchez Cerro bridge and Bolognesi bridge (pictured here) both collapsed during the El Niño flooding in 1998.

The San Miguel pedestrian bridge survived El Niño intact. Beyond its practical use it seems to also serve as a promenade/boardwalk, though the mostly dry river course doesn’t fall into the eye pleasing category.

Piura has the distinction of being known as the "Ciudad del eterno calor" meaning "The city of the eternal heat." That proved to be the case when we were there. August is the middle of winter in Peru. In Chiclayo, only 125 miles south of Piura, cold drinks and ice cream have mostly been abandoned during the winter as days are cool (low 70s) and nights with a stiff wind can border on cold (mid 50s). During our visit to Piura the literally frozen Inca Kola served at a restaurant (we were initially unable to pour it from the bottle to glass) and double scoop of goat milk ice cream were a welcome refreshment. It was hot!

Tom

Visiting an Ostrich Farm

2010-08-08T12:45:00.001-05:00

There is an interesting history and human interest story behind Ricardo’s Ostrich Farm. In 1990 Ricardo Castañeda resigned his position as a governmental administrator, moved from Chiclayo and became a sheep farmer. In a relatively short time he had a successful wool business, but in 1995 in an effort to stimulate the region’s economy the government distributed 10,000 sheep to several collective farms. The price of wool plunged and Ricardo as a private farmer was forced out of business; selling his sheep for $20 each after having paid $220 for them. Looking for a new business opportunity, he came across information on ostrich farming. The first obstacle was getting permission from the government to import and raise birds that have never before been in the country. After one and one-half years he was given permission, and selling all of his personal possessions, went to the States to ‘intern’ on an ostrich farm. In 1997 he was back in Peru with 11 baby birds. He has had several set-backs since then, including an incident in 2000 when a low flying plane frightened the birds and caused them to run into fences, injuring themselves. Twenty four of the injured birds had to be killed, but the business recovered and appears to be showing steady growth.

There were 102 very big birds resident on the day we visited Ricardo’s farm, located only 10 minutes by moto from the town of Pimentel. Seventy-two of them were ostriches and thirty were recently introduced emus. It will cost you $1.75 to tour the farm, but you’ll get a lengthy and complete tour by Ricardo’s son Luis plus the opportunity to feed alfalfa to the birds, like this big male who is not bashful about nearly wrenching your arm out of the socket and making you feel as if you’re being mugged rather than feeding Tweety.

While he doesn’t mind being fed – in fact almost demands it, he will not tolerate being touched. He was not biting, but his wings were flared and he was delivering some thunderous kicks to the fence rails. They can kick with a lethal force of 500 pounds per square inch. They can also run at 40mph for over 30 minutes, so it’s not a good idea to irritate an ostrich. For me this guy’s only redeeming quality is those massive drum sticks, which are delicious….and relatively expensive by Peruvian standards.

Ricardo’s sells ostrich meat to the public for $5.66 per pound. They also sell to one of the better restaurants in Chiclayo. An average ostrich weighs about 215 pounds and will yield about 50 pounds of meat; mostly thighs and loin, which translates to $283 for the meat value. In addition there is also income derived from the blood (food purposes), the oil rendered from fat (cosmetics), the skeleton which is reassembled and sold to university medical schools, and from the skin which is used to manufacture products such as shoes and purses. The feathers are used to make feather dusters and other items, so there is virtually no waste involved.

A hen ostrich can lay anywhere from 40 to 100 eggs annually, weighing from 3.5 to 5 pounds. The male ostrich digs a large depression in the ground where the female deposits the egg. Ricardo collects the eggs and transports them to an incubation facility in Chiclayo where they will hatch in 42 days. Three days later the chicks are returned to the farm. We didn’t see any young birds and neglected to ask where they were.

The emus are considerably smaller and less aggressive but their manners are not any better. Emu eggs are about 1/3 the size of an ostrich egg and are dark green in color. The meat is supposedly similar to ostrich, which in my opinion is very close to good beef. Ricardo does not plan on selling emu until their numbers have increased.

Each adult bird eats 4.5 pounds of feed each day, comprised of corn, rice and several types of seeds and beans. From the look on the face of this emu I’d say it didn’t get its share on this day.

One bit of advice if you visit the farm…ask the moto driver to wait for you. There is virtually no traffic on what amounts to the dirt path and it is a 30 minute walk at a steady pace back to town.

Tom