Though located only 4 miles from the city
of Tumàn, the village of Calupe seems much further as the collectivo from Tumàn
navigates the winding road with uninterrupted fields of sugar cane on each
side. And like most desert villages, the transition from nothingness to village
is abrupt…suddenly without warning you’re there.
Calupe is larger than many villages we’ve
visited in the Tumàn District and actually looks more like a city than village
though it occupies an area no more than 500 by 500 meters. The streets are straight
and in a grid pattern. It has a large, attractive principal park; a library and
even a small police department. There is a modest open-air market offering most
food types, and a few tiny general stores. We didn’t see any restaurants. The
streets and sidewalks in the central section of the village are wide and well
maintained. And even the edges of town that butt up against the fields are
clean. It’s a quiet village. Sounds were limited to rosters crowing and an
occasional donkey braying. The only vehicle traffic we saw were the collectivos
arriving from and departing to Tumàn about every 15 minutes. I can understand
why people would live in Calupe.
Calupe has two schools…a primary school for
grades one through six, and a kinder. We were in Calupe to visit the kinder. For
Maribel and me entering the kinder complex was a real eye opener. It is the
largest, cheeriest, best equipped, best organized and best maintained kinder we’re
seen in Peru.
Martha Martinez is the kinder’s director,
and after only a few minutes of discussion it became apparent that she is the
force behind everything we were to see this day. She gave us some background
information about the school and community, indicating that there is a strong
parent’s association that takes their kids education seriously. At present
there are two classes, one with 28 students for kids 3 and 4 years old, and the
other with 24 students age 5.
After our discussion we spent the
next 30 minutes taking a tour of the complex. I use the word 'complex' because the kinder occupies a large, completely enclosed area containing three classrooms, a kitchen, two well equipped play areas, a shrine, and an attractive elevated stage to hold events and ceremonies. This photo shows the classroom of the five
year olds. We’ve been present at many kinders during lunch break, but have
never seen anything like this. It looked more like a high school cafeteria in Lima
than a kinder in the desert. And the demeanor of these kids was incredible. The
respect they showed toward the teachers, staff and other students was
impressive.
The kitchen, offices and restrooms were
clean and well equipped. Martha was especially proud of the kids play area.
Some months ago her kids had won 1,500 soles in a singing contest. The prize
money was used to construct a roof to protect the kids from the sun.
While returning to Martha's office we
commented that the school seemed to have everything it needed. In response she took us to a vacant classroom and said, “Our problem is we are turning away students. We have the classroom, furniture,
school supplies and a waiting list of students. What we don’t have is another
teacher.” By law the maximum student-teacher ratio is 26 - 1. With 52 students, Martha and the other teacher are at the maximum. The crux of the problem again rests with the current confusion regarding
responsibility for the school between the District of Tumàn and the sugar cane
cooperative. It’s basically the same problem the primary school in Conchucos is
facing.
But unfortunately the school problems are
an aside to a larger issue. Every day in Tumàn and lately in Chiclayo sugar
cane workers and educators from the Tumàn District are gathering to stage protests
against the sugar cane cooperative, claiming mismanagement, fraud and other
charges. Some workers and teachers say they have not been paid in over
four months.