The evolution of Chiclayo’s taxis

For younger Chiclayanos and those of us with fairly recent exposure to Chiclayo it’s hard to imagine that the words ‘taxi’ and Tico were not always synonymous. The little yellow three-cylinder 796 cc Daewoo Ticos with five-speed manual transmission are everywhere, and I have no doubt that during peak traffic hours it would be possible to cross a main street by stepping on the roofs of Ticos. Surrounding the principal park there is never a time when from 30 to 50 Ticos are not in view. But that was not always the case.

Prior to Tico importation in 1991 when the car was first manufactured, it was 20 and 30 year old Fords, Dodges, and Chevys that were the primary people movers. Also serving as taxis in those days were various models of Datsun, Hillman, Lada, Peugeot, Volvo and even Volkswagen Beetles. Today many of those old cars are still in service, traveling fixed routes and schedules as ‘collectivos’. As I understand it, Tico import into Peru stopped about the time when production was halted in 2001 to make way for the Daewoo Matiz. During my first visit to Peru in 2005 the Matiz was just starting to make its appearance on the streets.

Over the past few years competition for the Tico and its successor the Matiz has increased, primarily from the Suzuki Alto but also from what seems like a very recent overnight invasion of GM’s Chevy Spark, which in reality is a Matiz with a few cosmetics and the Chevy logo. They’re sleeker looking; come in different colors and add somewhat to passenger comfort with the Matiz and Spark being 6 inches longer and 3.5 inches wider and higher than the Tico. The Alto is the smallest of the three (Matiz left, Spark center, Alto right).

I seldom see a Tico when I visit Lima, and several people have told me that Ticos have been banned from city streets, at least in some Lima suburbs. I don’t know if that’s true, but there is no doubt that Ticos will be seen on Chiclayo’s streets continuing to transport people as well as stoves, refrigerators, furniture and almost everything else imaginable for a long, long time.

Tom

The Church at Reque

If you like visiting old churches, Lima is the place to be. It has many 16th and 17th century churches that are huge, ornate and intimidating. You know what I mean by intimidating…right? I’m talking about the feeling of being dwarfed by the grand scale of everything. Of being held in awe by the history of the worn marble floors and the somber majestic tones of the ornately carved wood. The feeling that anything other than an expression of reverence or talking above a whisper while in the church would be an unforgivable transgression, punishable by… you’re not quite sure who or what.

San Martin de Thoures church in Reque is not intimidating. In fact it’s the opposite. The exterior is bland and unremarkable. The twin towers have lost their bells and whatever else they contained. The cupola and arch to the rear are a clear indication of the adobe construction, which was completed in 1897.

It’s a different story once inside after passing through those massive doors. There’s certainly a feeling of immenseness and history but the overriding sensation is of warm and vibrant life, perhaps partially because of the cheery colors enhanced by the bright sunlight streaming in through roof-top windows. There’s just something about this place that feels really good.

The townspeople will tell you that what you’re feeling is the spirit of Father Victor Cèsar Diaz Alemàn who was the priest of the church from 1975 until his death September 26 2010. Everyone we talked with said the man was greatly loved and respected. His grave is in the churchyard near the main entrance; the only grave on the property. The remainder of the churchyard is devoted to a community garden started by the priest to provide food for the poor.

Twice yearly, on May 11 and November 11 the town of Reque puts on a festival honoring its patron saint San Martin de Thoures. They’ve been doing this since the sixteenth century. There will be games, rides, music and lots of food. The preparation started today. We plan on being there again tomorrow.

Tom

Bringing people together – a good thing?

Peru has a population of 29,797,694 – oops make that 29,797,695. Its land mass is 496,226 sq miles, which leads to a gross population density of .02 people per sq mile…lots of elbow room if you live in the jungle or highlands. Not so if you’re a coastal city dweller. Narrow streets and sidewalks plus businesses, schools, universities and even bus stations located in or very near city centers all serve to funnel an increasing population into existing space.

There is evidence that city planning is attempting to deal with the problem. In Chiclayo a major new bus terminal is being planned well away from the city’s center to alleviate congestion contributed to by the departure/arrival of 500 busses daily. An entire new subdivision is being constructed near the city of Pimentel. And yet Chiclayo’s streets are becoming more crowded. One of the problems is that upward expansion of existing buildings in the city is outpacing growth on the cities fringes.

It is not possible to walk more than 4 – 5 blocks anywhere in the city without encountering remodeling involving the addition of several new levels. My impression is that the majority of these building expansions aren’t driven by need but by speculation; the value of real estate continues to rise along with the opportunity to charge higher rent. This building is going to add anywhere from 100 to 200 people to the blocks population, placing increased demand on street and sidewalk space as well as the adjacent park benches.

Chiclayanos are accustomed to bumping and being bumped into when out and about – it goes with the territory. For us imports the concept of ‘full contact’ walking while on the streets or even in a mall, hospital or park is something that takes getting used to.

Tom

Human folly and a school closing

Pedro Ruiz Gallo is the name of the National University in Lambayeque. It has a reputation of providing a quality education in all fields including medicine. The problem is that classes are often disrupted by protesting students, teachers, maintenance workers, administrative staff, etc. It is a serious problem.

This space is where the Chiclayo extension of the Pedro Ruiz Gallo National University was located until recently. It’s on Balta Avenue next to Elecktra and has been there for 4 years. The staff of the extension, including the director, sub-director and teachers is hired by the director of education at the Lambayeque facility. The school hadn’t done anything during its short existence to attract attention out of the ordinary until the middle of last year when it made national news concerning protesting students who voiced the opinion that the director was too authoritative. Students supporting the director held counter protests. The director was interviewed by news stations and claimed that the sub-director wanted his job and was stirring up the students and parents. The sub-director denied the allegations and claimed the director was incompetent. The director of education in Lambayeque apparently took a hands-off position, hoping the situation would work itself out. It didn’t and after a period of escalating squabbling what apparently happened is that the university, instead of replacing the director or sub-director or both decided instead to close the school.

I don’t know if Chiclayo needed the Pedro Ruiz Gallo school. My guess is probably not, though the out of work employees would certainly disagree. What I do know is that in Chiclayo’s flourishing economy buildings in the metro area don’t sit vacant for long. They’re quickly remodeled or demolished to make way for some new enterprise. Perhaps the students who were formerly educated in this location will instead be able to buy a cheap jewelry item, or gaze in a window at the latest clothing fashion. I hope it’s not a restaurant. We don’t need another restaurant.

Tom

Chiclayo street snacks

Much has been written over the past few years about Peruvian cuisine. With the increase in tourism and the resultant increase in hotels and restaurants there has also been a rash of cooking schools starting up, as well as new cooking courses offered at the leading universities. Often there are food fairs sponsored by municipalities where cooking schools and universities display the art of cooking and offer to sell their creations to fair goers. Personally, though I enjoy Peruvian cooking, I like street snacks even more.

Street snacks are sold by mobile vendors on the streets. There are actually two broad categories of street snacks based on time of day. In the morning and early afternoon lighter snacks dominate. Toward late afternoon and into the evening the heavy duty, substitute-for-a-full-meal snacks appear in the form of tamales, humitas, empanadas, hot sandwiches, anticuchos and brochetas. We’ll explore those in a future post.

Street snacks are tasty and they satisfy that ‘between meals’ hunger. You don’t have to walk very far to encounter a wide variety of inexpensive snacks offered by corner vendors. Of the lighter snacks nearly everything is available, from candy to fruits and nuts and…well, let’s have a look at some that I enjoy.

Fresh squeezed orange juice is a big seller. Other beverages available are soya, cebada, chicha morada, emolientes, jugo de caña (sugar cane juice), raspadilla (slurpee) as well as bottled water and soda.

This woman offers a variety of baked goods including an item filled with apple. I don’t know what they’re called but I’ve learned how to point to them and say “un sole” (35 cents) which gets me four of them. The man has crackers, candy bars, cookies and juices in his display case.

Slices of pineapple, watermelon, granada, raw sugar cane and higos are popular items especially during the summer months.

Besides an assortment of packaged snacks including powdered pollen, this woman is offering bottles of honey and algarrobina for sale. The honey is processed locally in homes and sold in recycled rum and wine bottles.

Fruit in this wheelbarrow consists of grapes, limas, granadillas and ciruelas. Wheelbarrow vendors are almost never stationary, instead walking regular routes and selling to homes and small businesses as well as passing traffic.

Hot dogs are also available…okay, lousy joke. These aren’t really street snacks, but I had my camera out so what the heck. The puppy the woman is offering is the famed Peruvian hairless dog with its origins in pre-Inca cultures. Custom has it that sleeping with these dogs will cure asthma and bone aliments.

In the sweets category is this baked coconut mixture. Bottom-right in the cooler is the equivalent of a popsicle…known locally as bodoques. Bodoques come in three flavors…tamarindo, coco and fresa, all of which in my opinion are forgettable.

I’ve kept my favorite snack for last. For 35 cents you get six peeled hard-boiled quail eggs in a plastic bag plus a toothpick to eat them with and a light sprinkling of salt if you want it. I always tell myself I’ll eat just one on the spot and save the rest for home, but I never get more than two blocks before looking for some place to dispose of the empty bag.

There are many more snacks that I haven’t mentioned. I will typically buy one or two different items when walking around town, but only from regular vendors that I recognize. Even the locals don’t trust what they refer to as ‘casuals’ …sellers who haven’t been seen in a specific location before and appear not to be experienced at what they’re doing. Nobody wants to risk Montezuma’s revenge.

Tom & Maribel

I watched a woman chase a bus today.

Maybe chasing isn’t the right word. It’s hard to run with a duffle slung over the back and large plastic bags in both hands. She had sent a boy of about 10 running ahead of her in an attempt to stop the bus. The woman and boy weren’t alone…several adults were running the same race.

Getting a seat on a bus to Lima involves either buying a ticket at the terminal or standing two to three blocks away hoping a bus leaving the terminal has empty seats and will risk stopping in the prohibited zone to pick up a waving passenger. Ticket prices in the terminal are about 40 to 50 soles…on the street it’s 20 to 30 soles. For many people the terminal price is out of reach. Though Peru’s economy has grown 7% annually for the last five years, there is a large segment of the population that the growth has not reached. Chances of boarding a bus on the streets is about 50 – 50. Those who make it will be in Lima in about 12 hours. Those who don’t will find some place to sleep and try it again tomorrow.

We watched the boy, who was also burdened with bags chase the bus for three blocks before giving up. When he returned to the woman who had herself run two blocks she shouted at him a bit, probably out of frustration, because she had to know it wasn’t his fault. We watched the woman, boy and other ‘chasers’ begin the trek back to their starting point. What they somehow missed, and what we had seen from our elevated position alongside the road was that the bus was full. None of them had a chance.

Maybe the woman and boy will luck out yet tonight. If not there’s always tomorrow. When they do get on a bus another little drama will play out. If she’s lucky an understanding attendant will let the boy sit on her lap; not a comfortable situation for either of them. If not, the boy will sit on the floor between her legs. She won’t pay for a second seat, and the attendant won’t kick her off the bus.

Every time I see a scene like this or something similar unfold, I experience all sorts of emotions ranging from sadness to guilt (for watching them) to respect, which the bus chasers would probably not understand. For them and many other Peruvians this is nothing out of the ordinary.

Tom

Mariscal Caceres School

Chiclayo’s Mariscal Caceres School is located in the La Victoria district and is a five minute moto ride from our house. We were recently invited to visit the school to learn about some projects they would like to implement.

Our initial impression upon entering the school grounds was that this is a happy place…a vibrant, full of life institution with a strong sense of community and attachment. That impression didn’t change during our one hour visit. The school has an enrollment of 800 students in kinder and primary grades, with 400 attending morning classes and 400 in the afternoon. The school does not offer a secondary level. To serve the students there are 17 classrooms and 34 teachers.

The buildings are well maintained and classrooms are bright and cheery and populated with what appeared to us to be well fed, well clothed happy kids. All of the teachers we met had an air of professionalism about them as did the director (center) and sub-director (right).

There are some improvements that Eladio Gonzales, the school’s director would like to see. He feels the school needs a training/meeting room for the use of faculty and parents. He estimated construction cost at 30,000 soles ($10,900 USD). They would also like to construct permanent concrete stadium seating in an outdoor area for school activities. A third project is to upgrade the present computer classroom and add more computers. Of the five they have now two don’t work and there is no money to repair them.

Another interesting project would be to convert this strip of unused land to a mini farm for raising guinea pigs and ducks to sell to raise money for various school activities. The farm would be managed by students to teach them business concepts. The University Cesar Vallejo has promised to develop construction and implementation plans.

We don't feel there is a role for Promesa Peru in this school's plans. The construction of a training/meeting room is beyond our normal scope both financially and philosophically (not really a need), as is the stadium seating project. And while we sympathize about the broken computers, we think back to the school in Collique Alto that has zero computers and a single restroom with no water. Mariscal Caceres School seems rich by comparison.

Providing assistance for the mini farm does meet our criteria of helping people to help themselves, but its our feeling that the parents and teachers of this school are competent and capable of finding a way to accomplish their goals without us.

Tom