About Lifecycles

While sitting in the amusement park mentioned in a previous blog entry I got to thinking about lifecycles. The trees and flowers I was looking at have life cycles. The bench I was sitting on has a lifecycle. People sitting on that same bench a week of two later will not see the same flowers I saw. Everything – animate, inanimate and even activities and events; all have lifecycles. Civilizations, institutions, empires, even gods are born, grow, mature, decline and ultimately disappear. When we’re young everything is forever. Summer vacation, friends, family, schools, favorite places and activities will always be there. It isn’t until we’re older and have a broader perspective that we realize nothing is permanent – that everything is in a state of transition. The park I was sitting in will one day not be there. A case in point is a park in the district of La Victoria.

In 1978 when the park was inaugurated it was the crown jewel of the community, though the 400 squatter families who were removed to make room for the park during the preceding 4 years probably wouldn’t agree with that assessment. The park was huge, encompassing a two square mile area. It had multiple soccer fields; an indoor facility for volley and basketball; a full-sized adult swimming pool with adjacent kid’s pool and even a separate office building for soccer referees.

In about 1997 the park was essentially abandoned. A caretaker was unable to tell us why authorities stopped maintaining the park. One soccer field is still in use and a new brick wall is being constructed around it but the buildings, pools and grounds are slowly deteriorating…clearing the path for something else to begin its lifecycle on the site.

Probably the most visited tourist attraction in Chiclayo is Las Muses Park. The park came about as the result of monetary gifts from France and Germany and was inaugurated in 1995. It’s a beautiful park and has lots of visitors in the afternoon and on weekends.

The vegetation is well maintained, but a close look at the brick and mortar aspects of the park suggest that after 17 years the park is already in a stage of decline. Large sections of ornamental stonework have collapsed. A fountain has not held water for years and its light and water fixtures are missing. I am not sure how much longer it will remain a tourist attraction if decay is allowed to continue.

Shopping malls have a lifecycle, though I have yet to see a satisfying explanation as to why malls decline. In the 1950s Southgate Mall opened in Milwaukee. It was the first in the city and generated lots of excitement. I don’t remember when it disappeared but its life cycle wasn’t very long. I saw similar mall experiences in Appleton and Marinette Wisconsin. And these malls disappeared before the internet with its e-commerce that is undoubtedly affecting today’s malls.

Chiclayo’s Real Plaza mall is thriving. It has been at 100% occupancy since it opened its doors in 2005. It could probably double and even triple its present square footage and still be 100% occupied. It is definitely in a growth stage. But what occupied the land before it, and what was its lifecycle?

In the early 1950s the food giant Nestle built a food processing plant on the site, bringing an end to the lifecycle of the agricultural use of the land. The facility employed many people while producing milk, instant coffee and other food products. In the early 2000s Nestle decided to pull out, reportedly because of taxes and transportation costs. Half of the operation was moved to Lima and the remainder to Chile. Nestle donated a portion of the land to Chiclayo to be used for housing for the poor, and sold the remainder to developers which resulted in the Real Plaza Mall.

As successful as it is now, at some future date the Real Plaza Mall will come to the end of its lifecycle. Young people hanging out at the food court would probably laugh at the thought, but the history of mall longevity guarantees they will live to see the mall’s demise.

Tom

Chiclayo's Amusement Park

Located only a few blocks from downtown Chiclayo is an attractive multi-purpose park. Known officially as “Parque De Diversiones De Chiclayo” but referred to by everyone locally as “parque infantile” (playground), neither name captures in total what this park has to offer.

A large portion of the park is devoted to horticultural and botanical displays, with signs identifying the various trees and plants. Though it’s bordered on two sides by major roads with heavy traffic, the trees and other greenery do a good job of muting noise. Pathways guiding visitors through the flora are lined with cedar hedges, and the aroma of cedar combined with the fragrance of exotic plants creates a heady, almost intoxicating atmosphere. There are plenty of shaded benches to sit, relax and soak it all in.

The park also offers a bandstand and grandstand (yes, that’s Maribel performing an impromptu song and dance routine). I don’t know why the bandstand was constructed in that style. It looks like Batman’s head to me, but it’s probably a representation of something else. The bandstand is available for private rental.

The playground reminds me of school playgrounds in the late 1940s in Milwaukee, though it is more extensive and has a larger variety of attractions than we had as kids. As I watched the kids run from swings to teeter totters to monkey bars and back again I had the thought that kids are kids regardless of location and era. What has changed is that, given the concern for child safety, this facility would probably not be allowed to exist in the United States.

There is an attractive pavilion, also available for rental. It is well maintained outside and in, with a large kitchen and bar area. There are cultural events staged in the park that make use of both the bandstand and pavilion. The park is also a popular location to hold weddings.

It is very hot in Chiclayo these days, and this park with its shaded pathways and benches offers a tranquil respite from the heat. And if you’re so inclined you can even learn something about trees and plants.

Tom

A Boulevard Lost its Trees

One of my favorite places to walk in Chiclayo is a dirt path bordered by a canal on one side and a stand of trees on the other. Though it’s located in the city and is adjacent to Chinchaysuyo Avenue which sees its share of traffic, the trees, canal, birds and flowers create a peaceful park-like setting that extends for a distance of about three miles. Among the many species of trees are eucalyptus, poinciana, several varieties of palms and towering pine trees. Two weeks ago I noticed city work crews cutting down trees. I thought they were selectively thinning the trees or perhaps removing old trees in danger of falling. Not so.

Now, where there were hundreds and hundreds of trees there are none. Not one tree is standing. A three mile stretch has been completely denuded of all vegetation. I’m sure the city has a good reason for cutting down those trees, perhaps as a part of some ‘modernization/beautification’ program, but I suspect I’m not the only one who is thinking the area was beautiful as it was.

If there is a good side to this story, it’s that the wood was not left lying to rot. Though I didn’t see it, probably within hours after the work crews moved on neighborhood people were out there cutting the fallen trees into manageable lengths to be used for cooking purposes or to make furniture or artifacts. Yesterday there were still several machete-wielding women out there salvaging the few remaining wood scraps.

I wonder if whatever is going to be done with the boulevard will include the cooing of doves, or the sweet aroma of eucalyptus, or the blazing red blossoms of the poinciana trees that I enjoyed so much while walking there.

Tom

Of Machetes and Swords

Frequently in the smaller towns near Chiclayo men will board a combi with a machete strapped to their back or belt. Many men earn their living cutting sugar cane so the tool of their trade is always with them.

Machetes designed for cutting cane typically have a blade about 10” long and 5” wide at the top. This one in the photo is commercially made. Most of those seen in our region are home-made but follow the same general pattern, except they have a longer and thicker handle, perhaps either for better balance or two-hand use. They’re sold in Chiclayo’s mercado modelo for about $17.

The edged weapon carried by the man who boarded our combi when we were coming back from Tierras Blancas last week was a whole different animal. The handle appeared to be flawless and of an exotic wood, and wire-wrapped… something normally seen only on expensive knives and swords. The sheath looked to be hand-tooled leather, housing a blade estimated at 24” in length. A question to a fellow passenger revealed that the man is a well-known local shaman, and that he uses the sword when conducting his rituals.

He got off the combi at a remote desert crossroad where there were only a couple of houses and a handful of people standing around. We wondered where he could be going, so looked for him as the combi pulled away. Neither one of us saw him. There was no trace of him. The guy had vanished! Maybe there’s something to this shamanism thing.

Tom

How the School System is supposed to Work

The political structure in Peru that ultimately determines the quality of education and the environment in which learning takes place is comprised of three parts… the Regional Director of Education; the school Director; and the Parents Association.

The Lambayeque Region has three Regional Directors located in the cities of Chiclayo, Lambayeque and Ferreñafe. Their job is to administer to hundreds of National schools located in their districts. In theory it is their responsibility to distribute funds annually to the schools for maintenance and improvements based on need, and to insure that school staff is qualified and competent.

The school Director has primary responsibility for day to day operation of the school. The Director’s job is to insure that Regional policies are being adhered to; that students have adequate learning materials and that the teachers are doing their job. In theory, the school director regularly meets with the regional director and parents association to discuss the status and needs of the educational system.

I’m not certain if it is mandatory, but I do know that every school we’ve visited, from the most remote village to schools here in Chiclayo has a Parents Association. Its primary purpose is to work with the school’s director for the betterment of the school and students. Election of association officers is held annually in November at which time a President, Treasurer, Secretary and two “Vocals” (advisors) are chosen. In theory members of the Parents Association donate to a monetary fund to be used for school related purposes. In theory the officers meet regularly with the school director to identify needs and establish priorities.

That is the way things are suppose to work....in theory. In practice it can be vastly different. Regional directors feel overwhelmed (understandably) by requests for funds they simply can’t supply. Some school directors are little more than bodies occupying a position, either accepting the status quo or feeling helpless to do anything about it. Parents associations almost never have money and often exist in name only. Compare the following photos of entrance-ways and restrooms of three different schools in three different villages.













The three villages are located in the same Regional District. All three are isolated; have approximately the same population and are agriculturally based. All three schools were originally constructed at about the same time. And all three have an equal opportunity to apply to the Regional Director for funds.

What accounts for the differences? When I ask that question the standard response from school directors and parent association officers is, “The Regional Director will not give us money.” The reply from regional directors is, “We don’t have money to give.” While both responses are basically true, a large part of the problem in my view is a lack of leadership by the school director or the parent’s association and in most cases, both. It doesn’t require Regional money to pick up garbage and clean up the school entranceway, or to ask a paint dealer to donate a can of paint and a brush, or to ask for volunteers to do the work.

Two years ago a school director stopped us on a Lambayeque street minutes after being denied a request for project funds by the Regional Director. He had no idea who we were, but he knew we weren’t locals so pitched his project right there on the street. He got his money and the project was successful. Another director literally ran after our moto taxi to ask for help with school supplies and clothing for kinder kids. We met with her recently; she convinced us and we were able to help. Both of these directors are well known throughout the region for their persistent and aggressive approaches for assistance. And not just for their schools. They are also community leaders; working to improve the health and financial well-being of their community.

We’ve met other directors and association members who are as dynamic as the people mentioned above. But we’ve also met school directors and parent association members who simply bemoan their fate, lacking either the vision, ambition or ability to work for change. The differences between the communities with leaders and those without are readily apparent even to the most casual observer. The former have a vibrant look and feel to them; a sense of community that seems to reflect the intent behind the slogan sometimes seen in local government town halls... “Poor does not mean dirty!” In the leaderless towns there is almost a palpable feeling upon entering of Dante’s... “Abandon hope all ye who enter here.” That may sound extreme but it’s true.

I don’t know what the answer is. Perhaps leadership qualities in candidates for the position of school director and teachers should receive more emphasis in the hiring process. Maybe Regional authorities can provide training sessions for parent association officers. I know for a fact that the successful school directors mentioned earlier would willingly work with their counterparts who need guidance if asked. Whatever the answer is, something has got to change because until it does, the kids and ultimately the community will continue to pay the price.

Tom

A Blue Egg Rookery in the Park

A belt of pine trees extending for about one-half mile boarders the north edge of Chiclayo’s Las Muses Park. These days the tops of the pines are home to hundreds of nesting birds. Some are just building their nests while many others have laid eggs.

So far we haven’t been able to identify the species. They’re large birds…in size and shape resembling small penguins. Tail feathers are almost non-existent. There are two distinct color variations – one having black on the head and black wings; the other being a uniform tan. Both appear to have red eyes. Our theory at this point is that the tan is female, the other is male.

At the base of the trees are hundreds of eggs shells in various shades of blue. Scattered among the shells are dead fish and frogs; perhaps intended as food for hatchlings. The fish and frogs are probably coming from the Reque River, 8 miles south, or the Pacific Ocean, about 12 miles west. Either way it’s a significant flight.

I thought that given the characteristics – the large size and shape, red eyes and blue eggs it would be easy to identify the birds, but asking locals in the park and searching the internet has so far come up empty. It would be much appreciated if anyone who is familiar with these birds would post a comment.

Tom

School Opened Today in Tierras Blancas

When we arrived at the kinder school “Niño Del Milagro” in Tierras Blancas at 9:00am this morning the kids and parents were waiting for us. It had rained hard yesterday and there was a thick, gooey mud everywhere but it didn’t dampen the mood. The school director Lady Gonzales Saenz had everyone fired up and we received a loud and rousing welcome. A little girl in the photo front row right is wearing a white shirt that says “We are the future of Peru”. That sums up why we were there.

The good feeling continued inside the classroom when we presented to Lady and the parents every essential school item on the required list plus some used but serviceable clothing and a variety of toys, all made possible with the help of donations received. Following the presentation Lady lead the group in song and prayer.

As we were getting ready to leave, this woman asked to speak. She was obviously nervous but surprisingly candid, saying that she is the grandmother of three young children who have been abandoned by their parents. She went on to say “life is difficult in Tierras Blancas, and” … we can’t know for certain what more she was going to add because seconds after this photo was taken she choked up and was unable to continue. I think a pretty good guess would be that without the donated school supplies, her grandchildren would not be in the classroom today.

Maria, Paul W, Norma and Joyce – you have most certainly had an impact on the life of at least one person today and undoubtedly many more. Thank you.

Tom, Maribel and the Promesa Peru members