Other
than a vague plan of ‘going to Loja’ we had no agenda or timetable in mind when
we boarded the bus in Chiclayo at 9:00am for the three hour ride to Piura at
$5.75 per passenger. It’s a boring ride through barren desert with nothing to
see, which is good because the bus company Linea has replaced transparent windows
with thick screen windows, obscuring any clear view to the outside. I wonder
how many complaints they have had from disappointed Nikon-bearing tourists.
Once
in Piura we learned that travel options to Loja are limited to two bus
companies. Cooperative Loja offers departure times of 9:30am, 1:00pm and
11:00pm. We and a handful of other passengers boarded the 1:00pm bus ($10.00
per passenger) for what is advertised as an eight hour ride to Loja. The bus
has transparent windows which is good because the scenery improves a bit but
not a whole lot. There was a “For sale” sign in the front window. That, and
having to stop twice to adjust the right rear wheel brake didn’t do much for my
confidence. The lavatory door on the bus has the sign, “Solo por urine.” The
door is locked so you must see the attendant to unlock it. I wonder how many
complaints they have had from uncomfortable tourists who ate and drank freely
in Piura. Fortunately it’s only a three hour ride to the border town of Macarà.
Many
gringos in northern Peru are familiar with Macarâ. This is where they do the
border jump to get their visa renewed. The border crossing process is simple
but can be time consuming if there are many tourists. The first step is to
visit the Peruvian Immigration office to get an Andean immigration form. You
fill out the form and take it across the road to the Peruvian police station.
Assuming all goes well at the police station you return to the immigration
office with the completed form and passport in hand. After the immigration
officer stamps your passport you walk across the international bridge to the
Ecuadorian immigration office, where you get and fill out their version of the
immigration form. After the immigration officer stamps your passport you are
free to take photos; board your bus and be on your way for the five to six hour
ride to Loja. As the crow flies it is 93 km from Macarâ to Loja. Traveling the winding
mountain road the distance is 197 km. There are times when I enjoy the scenery
and almost constant up and down hair-pin turns through the Andes. There are
other times when I feel…okay, enough already, let’s get there. We were glad and
relieved to finally arrive in Loja at 10:30pm.
We
checked in at the Grand Hotel Loja, where a triple room for me, Maribel and
Brian cost $85 including breakfast. It’s a good hotel – fairly modern, clean,
good service and a good restaurant. We would stay there again (as we unintentionally
did).
It’s
a new day. We’ve slept well and had a good breakfast. Now what to do? Almost every
sizeable town occupied by the Spanish during the colonial period offers and
features in their ‘what to do and see’ literature historic churches, colonial
districts and parks. These are a given. For me the question then becomes…what
beyond the standard does the town offer? Loja offers several interesting
attractions. Without going into detail, we enjoyed the City Gate Monument,
Reinaldo Espinosa Botanical Garden, La Banda Park encompassing the Loja Zoo,
and the Museum of Loja.
Of
all the attractions we agreed that our favorite was the 25 acre Jipiro Park. We
walked through the entire park – much of it tree shaded and cool – all of it
beautiful. Throughout the park are scale reproductions of various historic and
cultural monuments. There is a wealth of information and photos on the internet
about Jipiro Park. We rented a paddle boat and ate snacks on the shore of the
lagoon. What particularly impressed me was the huge and elaborate skateboard
facility in the park. I would think that this facility would be the dream-come-true
of every skateboarder. If Chiclayo had something like that perhaps the monuments
and the tiled pathways in parks would not be constantly damaged.
In
total Loja offered enough to fill two days for us. If I can digress a bit,
mountain towns like Loja and Cuenca also offer something the costal desert cities
do not have… clean, cool and wholesome air. Part of that is due to the altitude,
but trees and other greenery also play a role. I especially like the trees. My
favorite tree in Wisconsin is the white oak. In Peru it’s the ceibo…a tree
native to the dryer regions of Ecuador and Peru. It doesn’t grow to great
heights but the bright green color and the width of the trunk and lower
branches are impressive. There are two of them in the village of Tumàn near
Chiclayo with diameters of fifteen feet. What struck me about the ciebos on the
stretch of road between Macarà and Loja in Ecuador is their sheer numbers. There
are dozens of them clustered together on mountainsides, bringing to mind Tolkein’s
army of angry Ents descending on Isengard. A majestic ceibo in a Loja park bears the
sign, “I am your lungs. Do not cut me – do not burn me.” I like that.
There
are two modes of transportation from Loja to Cuenca. You can ride a bus for
five hours at a cost of $10, or you can travel in a seven-passenger van for
three hours for $12. We chose the van and departed for Cuenca at 9:30am.
During this portion of the journey I mulled over the philosophical question of
what constitutes being a ‘good driver.’ I decided that, if being in complete
control of the vehicle plus being able to react instantly defines a good
driver, then our chauffer was a good driver. On the other hand, if you factor
in passenger comfort and passenger sense of well-being, then our driver sucked.
We were stopped at a police checkpoint about halfway through our trip. The
officer knew when the van left Loja so he knew the guy was driving the winding mountain road at breakneck
speed. His words to the driver were this…”You are endangering the lives of your
passengers. If you cannot be a better driver you will go to jail for three
days.” After leaving the checkpoint the driver resumed his petal-to-the-metal
driving (several days later as we were returning to Loja from Cuenca in the van
of a different company, a woman actually shouted to the driver, “Sir!,..I want
to get to Loja alive!).
I
doubt if there is anything I could say about Cuenca that hasn’t already been
written. It is a popular tourist destination with a huge expat population. In
fact the central downtown area is sometimes referred to as ‘gringo land.’ I can
understand why gringos would retire to Cuenca. Despite not being much different
architecturally
from other major cities in South America, it has a definite western look and
feel to it, and I think the customs also reflect western practices. The two
malls near our hotel opened at 9:00am and closed at 8:00pm, unlike Peru when
hours would be something like 10:00am to 11:00pm. We heard no loud, raucous
music during our stay (nor barking dogs or crowing chickens) and the streets
are clean and most buildings well maintained. We noticed that many restaurants in
both Loja and Cuenca closed as early as 9:00pm. We
had been told that it was less expensive to live in Ecuador than Peru, but with
some few exceptions we found that prices for hotels, restaurants and
supermarket items were equal or higher than in Chiclayo.
We stayed in Cuenca for two days. We visited the Central Bank museum, a
church museum across from the principal park (I’ve forgotten the name), and did
a lot of walking and looking. We also played mini-golf. Edgar is the owner of
the golf course. He and his wife bought the property and constructed the 18
hole course plus driving range about two years ago. Edgar is a good guy. He
gave free lessons to Brian and Maribel. And when we were done playing he drove
us back to our hotel; a ride of 30 minutes. The ride to his property via taxi
cost $10. Distance is one of the problems Edgar is having – that, and he could
use a better sign at the highway turn-off leading to his property. If you live
in or are visiting Cuenca you might enjoy a few hours at Edgar’s place. His
website is: www.eldescansogolfcenter.com.
One other Cuenca activity we did was a two-hour bus tour. It was well
worthwhile and identified places we wanted to return to later. It also pointed
out how congested traffic can become. At 3:00pm all of the tour bus passengers
got off six blocks from our starting point at the principal park when we realized it would probably take
30 minutes for the bus to reach it.
When it was time to leave Cuenca we discussed where to go next. We
considered Guayaquil but decided we were close to burn-out so opted to retrace
our route back to Chiclayo. Upon reaching Loja we were unable to get bus
tickets to Piura so enjoyed another good meal at Mama Lola’s Restaurant and another
night at the Grand Hotel Loja before returning to Chiclayo the following day.
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